PRINT: Rock Climb Arms Reduction, Red Rocks

Arms Reduction

5.9+, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 2.3 from 17 votes
FA: Karsten Duncan, Andrew Gomoll
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Ca… > Brownstone Wall

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Arms Reduction is a refreshing variation to the overbolted lower pitches of Armatron. It climbs up surprisingly fun moves on good rock that protects reasonably too. Perhaps I am a little biased but I feel it is better climbing in better style than Armatron's lower pitches.

Pitch 1, 195ft, 5.9 -Begin by face climbing up 15ft to a moon shaped arching crack. Move up the crack. As the crack starts to arch left move rightward out of the crack onto the face. Above the moon-shaped feature are two left leaning parallel cracks. Continue up and right to the rightmost of the parallel cracks. Continue up this crack until you reach a small sloping ledge for a belay.

Pitch 2, 160ft, 5.9 Move straight up the crack into the chimney on nice huecos. When you reach a bush move out left onto the chocolate face. Move straight up the featured face until you reach a small ledge with the Armatron anchors to your left.

Pitch 3 Rappel or continue up the boltless upper pitch of Armatron for another pitch of good climbing.

Location

This route starts about 50ft right of (bolted)Armatron. Look for an obvious arching crack to the right of dark rock.

Rappel Armatron.

Protection

A standard rack to 3" and a set of micronuts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview of Armatron and Arms Reduction. Photo by John Hegyes!

Where p2 takes the right crack, we opted to climb the left crack.

Andrew Gomoll climbs up the second pitch on the FA.

Andrew Gomoll on the first ascent. Above and left of him is the super cool Armatron headwall.

Andrew Gomoll preparing to exit the moon feature on the first ascent.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Bell
Boulder, CO

Regarding Armatron, you have to consider the mindset of the first ascent. They had no idea what pro would be on the wall and were probably assuming the upper part would be pretty blank. As they got higher and saw more and more features, they stopped placing bolts. In hindsight, it is easy to see that the bolts on the first pitch aren't necessary. Beyond the first pitch, I didn't think there are any unnecessary bolts.

Great job with this new route, now I have to get back up there to do it some day. Brownstone Wall may have the highest average star rating of any crag on this web site (with more than 5 routes)! May 24, 2007

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA

5.9+

No bolts were placed (or needed) on the FA of this route variation. Nov 12, 2007

OKClimber
Folsom

Did this route due today....boy what a dissappointment! From the prior reviews I thought it would be more enjoyable. The first pitch didnt seem to protect as well as the first pitch on Armatron, and there wasnt an anchor at the top of the first pitch.

At the top of the first pitch of Arms Reduction, we traversed over to join Armatron midway through the second pitch. Boy what fun! As we were rapping we scoped the first pitch of Armatron and it looked stellar, certainly a LOT better than Arms Reduction.

My advice...do Armatron! The bolts are placed in convenient places, in my opinion, and the rest of the pitches protect very well.

Cheers :o) Mar 2, 2008

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV

This route provides two long (almost 200' each) pitches of fun. Above p2 another 200 foot pitch gets you to Humerus Ledge where you have several choices on how to conclude the climb with a short pitch (5.6, 5.8, or 5.9) up the summit block. We opted for the 5.8 hand crack on the left side. It's possible to rap from the top of the summit block and down Armatron with 2 ropes but I recommend the walk off - scenic and very quick. Mar 29, 2009

Cunning Linguist

If hating bolts was an Olympic sport, these guys would be sporting medals like Flav sports clocks.

But it's not. I think I would have liked this description more if there were more pictures of people scowling at bolts...ah, well, Hot Flash has 'em. Nov 6, 2011

Nolan Slade
Hamilton, ON

5.9-

Great fun - did this as a way to skirt a slow party who had just started up Armatron. This was a great way to link into the money pitches of that climb, and I really enjoyed this start overall.

Slightly runout perhaps, but you’ll find some good nut placements and some smaller cams as well. I essentially climbed until I was out of rope on the first pitch (70m), and ended up in a nice little recess that took a good medium nut and .3 X4 for a solid gear anchor. Really enjoyed the next pitch that led into the bolted anchor for Armatron - you’ll definitely want to keep going up from there rather than rap down and call it quits.

In terms of difficulty, I found also that the grade was perhaps a bit inflated, similar to Armatron. If you’re a 5.9 leader you shouldn’t have a problem. Oct 31, 2019