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Routes in West of CCC trail/Talus

2nd Wind V3 6A
Bachelor-ete V0 4
Back Scratcher V6 7A
Bad Backwards V9 7C
Brave Heart V5 6C PG13
Bubble Bee V4-5 6B+
Cory's Problem V2+ 5+
Dry Fired V8- 7B
Easy Life V2 5+
Finger Pillar V5+ 6C+
Fist Fight V5 6C
Flux Boulder Classic V4 6B
Flux Warm-up V0 4
Fully Aroused V4 6B
Funeral Service V8 7B PG13
Gills Booger V2 5+
Groggy V2 5+
Heads Up Arete V1 5
Influx V4 6B
Lip-enstein V5 6C
Long Arm John V5 6C
Mixed, But Not Stirred V3 6A
Murder for Midgets V4 6B
Orgasm Arete V1 5
Pedestal, The V6 7A PG13
Piano, The V8- 7B PG13
Pulling Downs V5 6C
Purple Heart V5 6C
Purple Roof V3 6A
Purple Shadow V12 8A+
Rampart Roof 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a V4 6B
Red Slab V0 4
Sea of Purple V7 7A+
Sketch Slab V3 6A PG13
Slab of Doom V4 6B PG13
Space Pants V3-4 6A+
Sticky Arete V3 6A
Still Sleeping V1 5
Undertaker Arete, The V3 6A PG13
Unnamed V5 6C
White Vein V3 6A
Witness the Slickness V10- 7C+
Z's Arete V1 5
Z's Face V2 5+
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Type: Boulder, 9 ft
FA: Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 714 total · 5/month
Shared By: Peter Erard on May 2, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Edit]

The crux would be the second move from a standing start.Sit start has not been figured out yet. What's bad about it? The hands, barely any handholds. When there are handholds, they're non-existent. Semi-sharp edges leading into a slopy two-finger edge. From there, finish on top with a solid bomber hold. There's really nothing good about this climb except for the first two footholds.

Location [Edit]

Below Briton's Crack. Face away from Briton's crack, hike down and away from Briton's Crack, boulder is far down. The problem is located on to the left of the arete. Thin crack on the left face of the arete is off.

Protection [Edit]

Crash Pad. Sketchy landing below.

Photos

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James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Are you talking about hiking away from Brinton's Crack down the gully below the two "mini-spires" that everyone sits on to belay for Brinton's, or further east over the log that is there to prevent erosion?

How far away from Brinton's are we talking?

I just have a hard time believing some new FA in the V1-2 range was put up there since people have been bouldering in that area for years?

It is possible I guess, but a more accurate description of where the route lies would be nice... May 2, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I think Eric Z et al did this problem in the late 90's early 2000's. There is a V5 that goes up one of the faces. Git On It, the bouldering guide to DL has info, I think. So my bet is that this is not a new prob. May 2, 2007
Paul Jones
Madison, WI
Paul Jones   Madison, WI
FA Ralph Schmidt - EZ and I did it around '99. He had to work on it quite a bit for a v5 - I worked on it off and on for a few years b4 sending Aug 5, 2009

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