Type: Boulder, 9 ft
FA: Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 728 total · 5/month
Shared By: Peter Erard on May 2, 2007
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

The crux would be the second move from a standing start.Sit start has not been figured out yet. What's bad about it? The hands, barely any handholds. When there are handholds, they're non-existent. Semi-sharp edges leading into a slopy two-finger edge. From there, finish on top with a solid bomber hold. There's really nothing good about this climb except for the first two footholds.

Location

Below Briton's Crack. Face away from Briton's crack, hike down and away from Briton's Crack, boulder is far down. The problem is located on to the left of the arete. Thin crack on the left face of the arete is off.

Protection

Crash Pad. Sketchy landing below.

Photos

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James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
Are you talking about hiking away from Brinton's Crack down the gully below the two "mini-spires" that everyone sits on to belay for Brinton's, or further east over the log that is there to prevent erosion?

How far away from Brinton's are we talking?

I just have a hard time believing some new FA in the V1-2 range was put up there since people have been bouldering in that area for years?

It is possible I guess, but a more accurate description of where the route lies would be nice... May 2, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I think Eric Z et al did this problem in the late 90's early 2000's. There is a V5 that goes up one of the faces. Git On It, the bouldering guide to DL has info, I think. So my bet is that this is not a new prob. May 2, 2007
Paul Jones
Madison, WI
Paul Jones   Madison, WI
FA Ralph Schmidt - EZ and I did it around '99. He had to work on it quite a bit for a v5 - I worked on it off and on for a few years b4 sending Aug 5, 2009