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Sabbatical

5.10a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 68 votes
FA: Bill Boyle, 1989
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Lower Breadloaves - P…
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

A good route overall. The climb starts in an interesting low-angle slot behind a thin flake, then steps out right to a bolt (crux) on this flake before climbing up the face on the right side of the left-facing corner with big moves between big plates. Up top you can place gear in horizontals, but the upper part of the climbing is moderate and secure and it may not feel necessary. 100' to a set of chain anchors.

Location

This climb starts at the base of "Humble's Tumble", which has the distinction of being the single most obvious corner climb on the upper East side of the Breadloaves.

Protection

3 bolts. Gear to 1.5". Chain anchor. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Good shot of the line, you may not choose to sling the plate, but I did so because I had never done it..very fun line some very committing moves!
[Hide Photo] Good shot of the line, you may not choose to sling the plate, but I did so because I had never done it..very fun line some very committing moves!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] It seems a little contrived to head right at the first bolt. It's easy to stay in the OW to the ledge and then head right onto the face. Felt like 10a or so doing it this way. Upper face is so beautiful! Jun 21, 2010
Slay er
Ogden
[Hide Comment] There is a full on sideways lunge to a huge plate jug. Funnest move of the route. Those horizontals up top are pretty handy for protection. Apr 24, 2012
J Hickok
Bayfield, CO
[Hide Comment] First bolt very contrived (and difficult) - i.e. not the natural line at all. Good climbing on face above with one slightly wandering section.

(Sideways lunge not necessary.) Jun 27, 2013
John Steiger
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] If you’re top roping this, a better alternative to get to the first bolt is to climb along a dike-like feature diagonalling in from the right (gain the dike by working up some darkish extrusions). This makes the line completely independent of Humble Tumble and probably bona fide 10c. One of you young 'uns with itchy fingers should bolt it, after getting the park’s permission, of course. Oct 16, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Stepping out of the OW and smearing/laybacking past the first bolt felt 10c to me (and contrived, but still fun) and then some small gear in a horizontal gets you to the second bolt. The path of least resistance on the upper face requires some thought. A slung horn and small gear up to a green camalot provide plenty of protection for the upper portion. A worthy route. We climbed the Humble's Tumble to the left first, so I just precliped the first bolt on the way down. But there is good pro to get there (I had placed it when climbing Humble's) - as I recall a #4 camalot and a yellow mastercam will work. Jun 27, 2018
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
[Hide Comment] I thot getting to the 3rd bolt was a bit scary Jul 6, 2019
Stephen King
Portola Valley, CA
[Hide Comment] The anchors have been fitted with durable lower-off hardware courtesy of the ASCA. To support work like this donate today at safeclimbing.org Jul 2, 2022