Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FRA: Killis Howard and Travis Shephard 2007
Page Views: 1,034 total · 6/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Head up and slightly left on ledgy terrain with some 5.6 moves thrown in to a large ledge, then cut right up a left facing corner to a smaller ledge with some foliage. You know you're there when you're 180 feet up. Pitch 2 heads up the funky fist crack at 5.7/8, liebacking and jamming to a ledge. After your second joins you move left and drop down to a larger ledge with a tree. Pitch 3 shares 5.8+ crack with Burlesque, ends at good rap anchor beneath a short, crescent shaped chimney section. Pitch 4 is the crux: instead of traversing the flake left to finish Burlesque, head straight up toward obvious chimneys and a sawblade-looking flake protruding from it. Protection is intermittent and not always in quality rock, but the climbing is super varied and good. A little of everything on this one, capped by a smooth finishing chimney in solid chocolate varnish with a roof crack to a ledge. A scramble up and left puts you in position to rappel Burlesque

Location

Starts 80ft right of the waterfall pool on a good sized ledge. This climb could easily be called Burlesque Direct if we didn't laugh so hard at the Dear Diary joke while climbing it.

Protection

We carried double cams up to #3 BD-extra 2s and 3s would make the pitch safer and bring lots of long slings-drag was an issue even with doubles. A #4 camalot makes the P4 anchor bomber. Loose rock and challenging protection.

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