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Routes in Little England Wall

Anne of a Thousand Days T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Ben T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Charles II T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Henry VIII T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
London Tower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Minster Abbey T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
great split, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,147 total, 9/month
Shared By: Lindajft Jft on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

I think the crux is on the second pitch.
Real nice, smooth climb. Follow crack that runs parallel to corner.
First pitch tops out at tree a little to the left. One bolt belay and webbing are used for hanging belay. May need to replace runner/webbing when up there.

Location

start of climb is in corner and noticable by the belay area next to small tree.
Rap station is approx 20 ft south of where you top out. Two rope rap. Two bolt rap with noticable webbing.

Protection

nuts are great for this climb.
small to large cams.
great beginner trad climb.

Photos

Adam-phx-trad Saieed
Phoenix, AZ
 
Adam-phx-trad Saieed   Phoenix, AZ
 
definitely has some hazard from loose rock. i nearly beaned my belayer with a smaller piece. if my belayer wasn't in the fall zone i would've cleaned this route up as i went.

next time i will spend more time cleaning it up Jul 21, 2013
Shawn C
San Francisco, CA
Shawn C   San Francisco, CA
The rap bolt is to the left (facing the cliff) about 15 feet. Chossy indeed. Dec 9, 2012
amy beson
Tucson, Arizona
 
amy beson   Tucson, Arizona
 
chossy, but fun. wear your helmet- tons of rockage. never found the bolt at the top of the second pitch and lead had to rap off a natural anchor. Dec 9, 2012
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
PG13 is probably due to the wide section on the second pitch. might be a little intimidating if this is at your limit. if I remember correctly, the rock is a bit crunchy in places as well.

fine line to the top of a cool formation though! Nov 19, 2012
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
Does anyone know the current condition of this route? And why the PG13 rating? Thanks. Nov 19, 2012