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Routes in The Phallus

Phallus, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
SW Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3 R
Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft, Grade II
FA: Peter Geyser
Page Views: 1,961 total, 15/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb the SE face.

Location

2.8 miles past the Courthouse Bridge, on the left.

Protection

Lots of "stuff" see Eric's Book

Photos

Mark P Thomas
Draper
Mark P Thomas   Draper
Considering the Park's restrictions on pitons now, does anyone know if this route has been done clean? Clean rating & rack? Nov 8, 2011
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Eric's book says friends #2 through #3 1/2, tri-cams 32 1/2, #3, rocks # 6 through #8, 6 long bugaboos, 2 standard angles, and one each of 1", 1 1/2', and 2 baby angles (1/2" and 3/8"). We took no tri-cams...(AKA butt-cams)...but I did use a number of pins. I remember one section where I was really struggling with the gear and which of 3 difficult short crack sections to take.....I think I tried all three, and finally got through this tricky section some-how....(Which took awhile and was frustrating, but rewarding once I DID figure it out...). The aid is rated A2+;....which I find to be plenty tricky enough for me. I believe the climb is plenty safe enough, and it's not all that long too. It's a funky -looking weenie for sure, and challenging to climb. I enjoyed myself on this climb. I don't think it gets done all that much; sure is a striking formation from the road. It's got a short approach, and it's a great adventure. May 5, 2007