Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob Cockell, 1992
Page Views: 285 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Start by making committed friction moves; working up and left to a bolt on the small roof above. Crank the roof and rocker up (the crux), passing a horizontal crack (Camelot #2 optional). Continue above, passing three more bolts while climbing a steep friction face with fun slopers and dishes. The finish of the route passes a small roof and on up to a two bolt anchor with chains.

Location

This route is located on the east face of Wilbur's Tombstone, 10 feet left of Pumped Up Woman (5.8).

Protection

Optional #2 Camelot

Photos

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9+
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.9+
My personal view of the route: it definitely deserves AT LEAST 2-stars for a rating! This route kept me entertained and felt more sustained than the routes to the right (Pumped Up Woman and Rap Bolters Will be Pursecuted). There were no dirty/chossy sections and the crux was more committing than most (with a slight deck potential). Having compared the crux to a host of others with that rating and with what the book rates it, I would have to say it is at least 5.9+. Apr 30, 2007
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.9
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.9
Fun moves over the crux overlap. May 26, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
The opening moves are dicey and unprotected, good place to get a twisted ankle. I like the steep slab in the middle section. Sep 6, 2010
Brandon Matthes
  5.10- PG13
Brandon Matthes  
  5.10- PG13
If you are worried about the big runout between bolt 1 and 2, don't! After the crux at the first bolt you are on a massive ledge that you can easily clip from before continuing the climb.
Me and my buddy both agreed this is a terribly under rated route, that deserves some attention!! *** May 6, 2013
Matt Himmelstein
Orange, California
Matt Himmelstein   Orange, California
If you don't have trad gear, you can lead this then set up a TR for the other two routes on the wall.

This one feels committed going past the 1sty bolt. There is a second crux section a bit higher, but by then you are decently protected. Jun 6, 2016