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Blaow

V10, Boulder, 12 ft,  Avg: 2.9 from 8 votes
FA: Dave Graham
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Boulder Natural > Storm Boulders

Description

Start high on two crimps above head height (they are bad!!) Deadpoint all points off to jug up and left. It looks possible, but it isn't.

For a V5 boulderer I have decent crimp strenght. I can support my body weight on these crimps and pull up with feet on, but man i can't imagine what kind of training it would take for me to feel confident dyno-ing off these crimps.

Location

Left of Ride the Lightning, right of Terrorist.

Protection

Pad and spotter strong enough to catch you, so you can commit.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Locked in on the micro crimps on Blaow.
[Hide Photo] Locked in on the micro crimps on Blaow.
Aaron sending Blaow first go.
[Hide Photo] Aaron sending Blaow first go.
Aaron generating power off of the tiny crimps
[Hide Photo] Aaron generating power off of the tiny crimps
Noah going for it
[Hide Photo] Noah going for it
Me sending Blaow
[Hide Photo] Me sending Blaow
Blaow
[Hide Photo] Blaow

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
[Hide Comment] There is also a variation that heads up and right. Pull on to the two crimps, cross left hand up to a decent sidepull, then follow the holds straight up. Mar 6, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
[Hide Comment] whats the rating on the variation? Mar 6, 2008
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
[Hide Comment] The variation is also supposed to be about V10 Mar 7, 2008
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
 
[Hide Comment] The variation is also good (maybe better in my opinion) from a jump start - grab the better of the two crimps with your right hand and jump to the pinch. Not v10 if you jump though. Mar 7, 2008
[Hide Comment] My old nemesis... Jul 11, 2013
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V10-
[Hide Comment] So after doing this climb last weekend I got Aaron on it and the left starting hold definitely broke some after he sent. Nothing major but there is now a little groove for you to put your left hand pinky in making it slightly more comfortable in my opinion. It's not anything significant but I figured It was worth noting. The first clip in this video it was definitely not broken yet. youtube.com/watch?v=QP4uk0E… Jun 17, 2016
[Hide Comment] Hey guys, as I was pulling on Blaow today the left hand broke more. A pretty decent size chunk came off, probably about 1 inch long and wide or so. Now the top of the hold is flat instead slanted down left. I still was able to pull on it after it broke, just to see if it was still doable. There wasn't much difference, I think the crimp might be the tiniest bit deeper, but I think it compensates for now that its at a worse angle. Lets get some people in to send it that have sent it to see if the grading has changed at all.

Sorry guys, I was quite bewildered after the piece popped off when I was on it. I'm about 140 pounds and definitely not expecting that. Good news is its still pullable, just need to figure out if its any easier or not. To be honest it feels about the same for me still, i'm pretty confident that it will still be sitting in the V10 grade.

-Hunter Dec 3, 2016
[Hide Comment] I think it's a Dave Graham FA. Feb 21, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
[Hide Comment] My understanding is that it was Luke Parady who got the FA. Feb 21, 2017
[Hide Comment] Dave did this first. Apr 6, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
[Hide Comment] Haha that ^ has been uttered so many time about so many routes. Apr 17, 2017
[Hide Comment] Trying in thirty degree weather makes the crimps feel good. Dec 27, 2018