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Routes in The Bog Wall

Beyond The Bog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Butterfly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fathers and Sons TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Focus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Holy Grail T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up From the Bog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Veils of Illusion T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: S. Hutchinson, D. Hutchinson, 1990
Page Views: 452 total · 3/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 29, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

While this climb could be led, and even has a bolt at the crux (but not at the time of the FA apparently), I've listed it as a TR for two reasons: it would be a very bold lead (if you avoided the better holds and placements on the adjacent route), and because it's an eliminate. You have to work hard not to use the holds on Veils of Illusion.

Despite all of that, it's a fun workout on a TR and has some thin and delicate moves of a style found in many places in Squamish.

Location

The face immediately left of Veils of Illusion.

Protection

To lead it would require dicey thin wire placements, I would think. The bolt at the crux would take a big load off your mind. I'm speculating since I haven't, and don't plan to lead it. The bolts at the top of Veils work for this climb too.

Photos

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So, David Jones cleaned this route and several others. He offered me the opportunity to lead the route while with my son Seth Sanford,age 13, and others Jim Bourgeois, I believe Bob Kandiko and Karen Neubauer as well. I did the traditional ground up with pro, placed the bolt while on lead and led the route to the belay ledge. Just to let you know. Dave was gracious enough to name the route fathers and sons and when Seth was 21 we were back together and he said Dad I didn't really do this without help, could I make the lead. He did, and today I am still very greatful to Dave for the bonding opportunity he provided. Seth also made his first lead at age 12 on Cat Crack that year; and just this season led his first 5.14a, Roadside Prophet, at Rifle, CO. Still climbing at 62 and 32. Nov 30, 2010

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