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Routes in The Bog Wall

Beyond The Bog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Butterfly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fathers and Sons TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Focus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Holy Grail T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up From the Bog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Veils of Illusion T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Kevin McLane, Andreas Maurer, 1975
Page Views: 923 total, 7/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 29, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

This is the best climb on The Bog Wall and is surprisingly tricky and awkward for the grade.

Location

This is the obvious left crack.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and cams. I placed a 4.5 camalot, but there are good alternatives. Protects well, but the crack shape makes some of the nuts fiddly.

There are two bolts on a wall set back from the top of the climb. They are very convenient, but the direction of pull is more outward than downward, which is a little disconcerting. This climb does get top-roped very often off these anchors if that's any reassurance.

Photos

Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
led on 2 nuts bc im awesome. good warm up Jul 3, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.8
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.8
Pretty functional? It's a crack for gods sake. And a very nice crack at that. Lots of edges and features on either side of the crack, which keeps the grade reasonable. Jul 26, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.8
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.8
Pretty functional for what it is. Protects well, but you need a big piece (3" maybe, I can't imagine how the OP placed a 4.5" piece) at the end though, unless you want to run it out. It's pretty harmless though, as runouts go. Fun fist jamming for a couple moves, a mantle and you're done. Oct 14, 2009