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West Buttress

Mod. Snow, Snow, Alpine, 12500 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 71 votes
FA: 1951 Brad Washburn
Alaska > Interior Alaska… > Denali NP > Denali
Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Description

The West Buttress is often considered the handicap ramp to the top of Denali. It is the easiest route to the top but it can still kill you very quickly. The route has around 12,500 ft. of elevation gain. Weather can change in a heartbeat so come prepared for anything.

Location

The route starts at 7,200 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier and climbs all the way to 20,320 feet. 14 miles long so come in shape and prepared.

Protection

There are fixed lines on the route so bring jumars. Ice axe, good winter tent, stove, fuel, food, motivation, patience, the proper clothing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On Denali's West Buttress 6/11/2007.  Photo: Joel Schenk
[Hide Photo] On Denali's West Buttress 6/11/2007. Photo: Joel Schenk
snowboarding at 20,000'
[Hide Photo] snowboarding at 20,000'
Summit Ridge
[Hide Photo] Summit Ridge
The Views for 17k
[Hide Photo] The Views for 17k
14k camp
[Hide Photo] 14k camp
West Buttress made for a memorable ski trip - <br>
photo Caleb Wray - 2010
[Hide Photo] West Buttress made for a memorable ski trip - photo Caleb Wray - 2010
Ridge to 17K
[Hide Photo] Ridge to 17K
The West Buttress
[Hide Photo] The West Buttress
kahiltna base camp at 7000ft. Mt Hunter in background
[Hide Photo] kahiltna base camp at 7000ft. Mt Hunter in background
Well....  is that it??
[Hide Photo] Well.... is that it??
cribbage...lots and lots of cribbage
[Hide Photo] cribbage...lots and lots of cribbage
cooking at the cook tent
[Hide Photo] cooking at the cook tent

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Lloyd
denver, colorado
[Hide Comment] I'm looking for a partner to climb denali via the west buttress in june 2012. Email me if your into it... Nov 29, 2011
Mark Smiley
Jackson, Wyoming
[Hide Comment] Want all the beta, how-to instructional video, GPS route lines, and more? It's all here: howtodenali.com

I've climbed Denali 5 times, and have done 15 other glacier based expeditions. I give you all the beta in the course, so you can climb like a pro. Check it out. Apr 26, 2017
[Hide Comment] A member of my team of three for the West Buttress just dropped out. We are a permitted team, with orientation in Talkeetna on May 23, 2019, and are looking to add one or two new members to this team asap. We will be traveling by skis. Anyone with interest should reply as soon as possible, as we have a limited window to add new members. Mar 21, 2019