Type: Snow, Alpine, 12500 ft
FA: 1951 Brad Washburn
Page Views: 17,415 total · 119/month
Shared By: R Squared on Apr 29, 2007
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


The West Buttress is often considered the handicap ramp to the top of Denali. It is the easiest route to the top but it can still kill you very quickly. The route has around 12,500 ft. of elevation gain. Weather can change in a heartbeat so come prepared for anything.


The route starts at 7,200 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier and climbs all the way to 20,320 feet. 14 miles long so come in shape and prepared.


There are fixed lines on the route so bring jumars. Ice axe, good winter tent, stove, fuel, food, motivation, patience, the proper clothing.


Matthew Lloyd
denver colorado
Matthew Lloyd   denver colorado
I'm looking for a partner to climb denali via the west buttress in june 2012. Email me if your into it... Nov 29, 2011
Mark Smiley
Jackson, Wyoming
Mark Smiley   Jackson, Wyoming
Want all the beta, how-to instructional video, GPS route lines, and more? It's all here: howtodenali.com

I've climbed Denali 5 times, and have done 15 other glacier based expeditions. I give you all the beta in the course, so you can climb like a pro. Check it out. Apr 26, 2017
A member of my team of three for the West Buttress just dropped out. We are a permitted team, with orientation in Talkeetna on May 23, 2019, and are looking to add one or two new members to this team asap. We will be traveling by skis. Anyone with interest should reply as soon as possible, as we have a limited window to add new members. Mar 21, 2019 · Temporary Report