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Copperhead

5.7+, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 17 votes
FA: Bill Smith, Doug Grayden, mid-70s
Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset North

Description

Copperhead is short and off the beaten track (literally), but it's a worthy challenge. Like many routes at Sunset, it's a stiff one for the grade.

From the left end of the ledge, start at a dirty but easy sloping crack that moves up and left to a ledge. Move right to climb a short and tricky vertical crack -- it's well-protected, but too shallow for jams. After the crack, move up the face on sparse and reachy holds to finish with a mantel topout.

Location

Starts at the left end of a ledge above the trail, about 5 minutes walk down from One-Ten; watch for steps leading to the scramble up to the ledge. Rap from the pine tree at the top.

Protection

Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Sling trees at the top or build a gear anchor on the ledge to climber's right of the topout.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Decent exposure for a 40 foot route. The top out would be a bit burlier without those mondo jugs...
[Hide Photo] Decent exposure for a 40 foot route. The top out would be a bit burlier without those mondo jugs...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Solid rock but very pebbly. Not the best. Feb 16, 2012
Andy Weinmann
Campton, NH/Warmington, UK
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Better to rap from the anchors to climber's right atop the neighboring climb. Nothing larger than a #1 C4 needed. Oct 13, 2015
RandyLee
On the road
[Hide Comment] "I'm good at face climbing, this'll be easy" I says to myself, as someone regularly sport climbing high 5.10 on face and slab. Never have I been shut down so hard by a 5.7. On the plus side, it wasn't terribly run out if you're creative with gear placements. Aug 1, 2017