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The Chimney

5.6 WI2 Mod. Snow, Trad, Ice, Snow, Grade II,  Avg: 3.5 from 13 votes
FA: W. Helburn, Chamberain, Holden, Kennedy, M. Helburn, Dow, Whipple (1923)
Maine > j. The Maine Hi… > Katahdin > 06. All Winter Ice Ro…
Warning Access Issue: Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Special rules apply for winter camping & climbing in Baxter State Park and on Mt Katahdin DetailsDrop down

Description

A long, great gully climb. When I climbed it there was very little ice, making it a snow climb with a few easy rock bands. The hardest part for us was actually getting onto the ridge at the top of the climb to head out for the knife edge and the rim of the basin, though by heading left down the Dudley trail this crux may be avoided. DO NOT CLIMB WHEN THERE IS AVALANCHE DANGER!

Location

The south basin, on the left wall. The route can not be seen from Chimney Pond.

Protection

Snow gear (pickets), probably some screws (we didn't use them for lack of ice), a light rock rack (nuts and a few cams).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matty B climbing past Pamola's cave, one of the coolest features on the route. <br> <br> © Brent Doscher Photography
[Hide Photo] Matty B climbing past Pamola's cave, one of the coolest features on the route. © Brent Doscher Photography
Matty B, Spencer N, and Peter B hanging out under the first chockstone, prepping for a little mixed action in a very low snow year. <br> <br> © Brent Doscher Photography
[Hide Photo] Matty B, Spencer N, and Peter B hanging out under the first chockstone, prepping for a little mixed action in a very low snow year. © Brent Doscher Photography
Preparing for a June 1969 ascent of The Chimney on Mt. Kathadin.
[Hide Photo] Preparing for a June 1969 ascent of The Chimney on Mt. Kathadin.
The Chimney (the huge cleft in the rock face) as seen from Baxter Peak.
[Hide Photo] The Chimney (the huge cleft in the rock face) as seen from Baxter Peak.
Chimney from Cathedral trail
[Hide Photo] Chimney from Cathedral trail
Myself and Dale on the South Basin rim after climbing the Chimney Route.
[Hide Photo] Myself and Dale on the South Basin rim after climbing the Chimney Route.
The Chimney - The long gully which culminates at the cleft between Pamola & Chimney Peaks upon the Knife's Edge Ridge.
[Hide Photo] The Chimney - The long gully which culminates at the cleft between Pamola & Chimney Peaks upon the Knife's Edge Ridge.
Myself, Mike, and Dale Starting the Chimney.
[Hide Photo] Myself, Mike, and Dale Starting the Chimney.
Kevin near the cave
[Hide Photo] Kevin near the cave
Kevin, mid-route
[Hide Photo] Kevin, mid-route
The Chimney, Pamola...Katahdin.
[Hide Photo] The Chimney, Pamola...Katahdin.