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Routes in Vedauwoo Dome

CLAw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cultural Learnings of America T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Diapers TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fluorogreen T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Poutine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putain T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Soufflant T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Charlie Cundiff 2007
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 28, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Fluorescent green lichen is what you get when you climb this. It is a nice clean line, and protects well, making it an excellent beginner trad-route. It climbs a crack corner with abundant face holds and tons of gear options. At the steepest, it is only 70 degree or so.

Location

the bright green patch of lichen on the NW side of the upper headwall make this corner system easy to locate. getting to the start is a bit of a scramble, you can either scramble directly up to it, or scramble down around the corner from Putain. The start is under some shrubby oaks to the right of a giant balanced boulder.

Protection

Standard rack, just wires, just cams, but mostly small to mid-range (you can leave the big cams below for this one). No fixed anchors.

Photos

Marta Reece
Las Cruces, NM
Marta Reece   Las Cruces, NM  
This climb is all about the start. You can start from directly below the crack from a flat area near a large tree the branches of which nearly touch the wall. The boulder problem at the base, up a slightly overhanging wall with some good holds, is best done on top rope or at least with a crash pad and is definitely well above the 5.5 rating.

This crux may be skipped by starting well to the left where a fourth class scramble takes you onto the same bulge the boulder problem ends on. There is only one catch. If you are short (I am 5'6"), you will find yourself well off the ground doing moves that feel more like 5.7 than 5.5 in order to reach the crack, and your first protection opportunity.

This crux too may be skipped altogether, this time by going right and coming up the bulge on the right side of the photo. Doing that will keep the entire climb in a low fifth range. Dec 17, 2012