Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pinky Tower

Planet Caravan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ring Sizer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Laggis, Keith Reynolds and Bill Russel '95
Page Views: 2,246 total, 17/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Apr 28, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1 – Stem up to the corner and continue via a pair of cracks that widen from small hands to offwidth. Belay from gear in the notch. (5.10) Note- It is also possible to gain the notch from back side with 4th class scrambling.

Pitch 2 – This is the money pitch. Carefully work your way out to the first bolt on the corner of the tower. You can get some manky gear at your feet but it’s best not to fall before the first bolt. Continue working up and around the tower on superb face climbing protected by bolts. When you get to the opposite corner of the tower follow a rising crack that leads to a vertical fistcrack and the summit. Watch for rope drag on this pitch. (5.10)

1 two rope rappel from bolts on the summit to the ground on the back side of the tower. (It is possible to rap this with one 60 meter rope though you may have to downclimb a little of the 4th class approach.)

Location

The first pitch faces the road.

Protection

Two sets of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot. One 4.5 Camalot. Slings to help mitigate rope drag and a few quickdraws.
slim

  5.10 PG13
slim    
  5.10 PG13
pitch 2 is a bit hairy for the second, as well as for the leader. from the final anchor, if you throw down your end of the rope you can give a little bit of a TR belay for the second during the initial traverse. May 2, 2017
brat
 
brat  
 
I'm 5'4" and the face moves on p2 felt super hard. Much harder than the last pitch on In Search of Suds on Washer Woman (which I did the next day). Apr 27, 2017
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
The big gear is for the first pitch, the top of the 2nd pitch could take the #3s and maybe a #4. Felt a single rack from .4-1 BD would suffice with 2X #2-#4 BD and 1 #5.
Thanks Sam for the anchor update! However, the next person up should bring a wrench, as the 1/2 Rawl was spinning (the bolt, not the hanger). I tightened it by hand, and hopefully it'll tighten back up with a little wrenching.
P1 gets morning shade, as does most of P2 until the upper bit. Apr 1, 2014
Evan C  
Sun/shade factor? Jul 7, 2012
I have no problem with 'Planet Caravan.' It looks like a sweet route, and surely is a great addition to the climbing in Moab. With hindsight I wouldn't have taken the webbing off the anchors. That being said I likely wouldn't have even noticed the anchors if they had any kind of camo on them. (I'm no god, I don't camo all the bolts I've ever placed but they usually are not so obvious from a road that is traveled mostly by non-climbers.)

It's going to be awesome when the general public gets fed up with all the old tat hanging off the towers and cliffs and wants to regulate some stuff. Oh wait, they already started to do that in Arches and Canyonlands.

You are totally right Joshes. I'll stay in the gym the desert is disgusting! Jun 10, 2012
joshes  
how about leaving things alone! i love peoples self appointed desert safety chief tum. i enjoy clipping star drives knowing that was how it was done and reassuring myself not to fall. go to the gym if ya dont like the ugly desert. May 28, 2012
PLEA FOR HELP - Did this route on 10/10/11, and accidentally left my headless, legless, one-armed Barbie on the top after summit photos. If you do the route and find her - PLEASE contact me so I can get her back - there's beers in it for you.

Thank you - she's been my faithful companion on many towers.

- Jeff Oct 11, 2011
And with the addition of Planet Caravan it all makes sense. Nov 18, 2010
Paul Irby
moab, ut
Paul Irby   moab, ut
there are some face feaures that lead to the anchor in question. i'm guessing that someone was planning on bolting at one time.
Oct 10, 2010
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
This is great piece of climbing on your better than average desert stone. I wouldn't recommend it for anyone not willing to risk bad falling possibilities however, especially before reaching the first bolt after leaving the belay on the second pitch. How often do you get to climb solid jugs through steep terrain in the desert? Sep 22, 2010
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Good-on-ya for cleaning that up. May 10, 2010
Does anyone have an explanation for the anchor that faces the road? We took the webbing off of it so it's not as obvious/ugly. Our crew couldn't figure out what it was for. No route before or after and it makes no sense to rappel that direction. Unless someone has a reason for it being there it should be chopped.

Just my thought.

Ben May 10, 2010