Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Matt Laggis, Keith Reynolds and Bill Russel '95
Page Views: 4,153 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Apr 28, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 – Stem up to the corner and continue via a pair of cracks that widen from small hands to offwidth. Belay from gear in the notch. (5.10) Note- It is also possible to gain the notch from back side with 4th class scrambling.

Pitch 2 – This is the money pitch. Carefully work your way out to the first bolt on the corner of the tower. You can get some manky gear at your feet but it’s best not to fall before the first bolt. Continue working up and around the tower on superb face climbing protected by bolts. When you get to the opposite corner of the tower follow a rising crack that leads to a vertical fistcrack and the summit. Watch for rope drag on this pitch. (5.10)

1 two rope rappel from bolts on the summit to the ground on the back side of the tower. (It is possible to rap this with one 60 meter rope though you may have to downclimb a little of the 4th class approach.)

Location Suggest change

The first pitch faces the road.

Protection Suggest change

Two sets of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot. One 4.5 Camalot. Slings to help mitigate rope drag and a few quickdraws.