PRINT: Rock Climb Coyote Ugly, Central Coast

Coyote Ugly

5.9, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),

Avg: 3 from 56 votes
FA: David Rubine & Eric Topel (1989)
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > E Side > Tiburcio's X

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:

Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.

SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.

As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.

The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.

All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.

All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.

Description

Very exciting, full-pitch climbing with a great view.

Loose rock down low yields to even worse rock along the crack followed by much better rock up high.

Location

Start just right of the point directly beneath the intersection of the two cracks which form the X.

Descend the backside either by downclimbing or a 50' rappel.

Protection

6 bolts (all 3/8" x 3-3/4" wedge bolts). Gear: medium to 3".

Either rappel of downclimb 50' off the backside of the formation.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from Coyote Ugly

Mike leading Coyote Ugly

at the second bolt of Coyote Ugly 5.9. I plugged a nut in one of the lower cracks as well.

Route topo for Coyote Ugly

TR'ing with a 70m rope. note that climber should finish on the 5.10c variation (last 15 feet) else they face a giant pendulum. Also, set a directional on the very last bolt of the standard route (…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

rhyang
San Jose, CA

As of last Tuesday (28-Dec-2010) there was a 7th bolt protecting the 5.10c direct finish. Jan 2, 2011

Patrick M.
Vancouver

Can be top roped with a 70m rope. Nov 11, 2012

Bruce Hildenbrand
Silicon Valley/Boulder

You can descend by rappelling 50' to the north down the aforementioned 4th class ramp. Jun 5, 2020

John F Kim
San Jose, CA

I placed just one cam down low. At the top the easier finish is to the right on the arete but the extra bolt is on the direct finish on the face. The bolts are offset so might need a short sling or draw on one bolt to equalize the anchor. If rappelling off the front make sure rope is centered to get both ends on the ground, and the offset bolts create lots of friction when pulling the rope. Jun 14, 2024

JC w KC redux

for John Kim and others - if you read the previous comment by Bruce Hildenbrand the rappel is evidently set to go off the backside (with an easy pull when you're down). That may be why it looks like the bolts are offset when you go off the front side. The original descent was to downclimb the 4th class backside route (a "walk" off). I haven't been up there since they changed the anchor configuration in 2017. It's probably best not to rappel the front side anyway since it faces right at the hiker's trail below and that is a very popular trail (the Rim Trail). I made this entry on the Rebolting Master List on Mud n Crud after Bruce told me about it. Before that - there was nothing up there to rappel from. 192-196 - Tiburcio’s X - replaced one anchor bolt, added Fixe double ring hangers to two anchor bolts –
Hildenbrand, Cummins, 2017 mudncrud.com/forums/index.p…
Hope that helps. Nov 1, 2024