Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 58 total · 0/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 25, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Mentmore Adopt-a-Crag Cleanup, August 18/19, 2018 Details

Description

This climb is a tease. At the very end of the cliff is an obvious and attractive looking wide-hands crack. Unfortunately the crack ends about halfway up the cliff. Climbing the crack is enjoyable, but the rest of the climb is on loose, sandy, lichen-covered rock that is nearly unprotectable. It's not difficult at all, but be prepared to be essentially soloing if you 'lead' this one. There is no anchor at the top, and building one is hard, so TRing is not very appropriate either. Generally not recommended, except if you want to boulder the bottom 10-12 feet or so, practicing your jams.

Location

The last climb on the cliff, right next to the railroad tracks. Look for the obvious crack. Walk off.

Protection

Trad gear. No bolted anchor. The obvious handcrack takes pro nicely, but it ends about halfway up. Above the crack, you'll struggle to find any pro at all, and a fall from near the top would be very serious. Very difficult to build an anchor at the top due to bad rock and no cracks. NOT a recommended lead.

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