Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,059 total · 14/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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A few tricky and sequential moves lead to a giant rail at mid-height. From here, 5.7 climbing on a large, flexing flake leads to the summit.


Exits the mouth on the far right side (left of the large offwidth crack).


usually top-roped


Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
Also pretty common to just V0 it...the top is mellow. Fun moves! Jul 11, 2010
Nick Sullens
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
I'll second that its usually bouldered Aug 19, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Considering the deplorable state of the anchors on top, this girl is better off without a rope. Last time I checked, all the bolts on top of Lizard's Mouth looked suspect. Aug 20, 2010
steve edwards
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Those bolts are very very old. At least there are a few of them. Feb 21, 2011
Santa Barbara, CA
5150dhbiker   Santa Barbara, CA
I personally like bouldering it, and the bolts are useless. A big organic and another pad seemed like good coverage to me. The flake is getting looser, and I don't want to be on the receiving end of it breaking. Nevertheless...it's quite fun and I recommend doing it if you are at the mouth. May 23, 2015