Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Mouth

Butthole, The V3-4 6A+
Flight of the Iguana TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Goldak V0 4
Lizards' Mouth Traverse V0+ 4+
Yellow Belly TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,776 total · 14/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A few tricky and sequential moves lead to a giant rail at mid-height. From here, 5.7 climbing on a large, flexing flake leads to the summit.

Location

Exits the mouth on the far right side (left of the large offwidth crack).

Protection

usually top-roped

Photos

5150dhbiker
Santa Barbara, CA
5150dhbiker   Santa Barbara, CA
I personally like bouldering it, and the bolts are useless. A big organic and another pad seemed like good coverage to me. The flake is getting looser, and I don't want to be on the receiving end of it breaking. Nevertheless...it's quite fun and I recommend doing it if you are at the mouth. May 23, 2015
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Those bolts are very very old. At least there are a few of them. Feb 21, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Considering the deplorable state of the anchors on top, this girl is better off without a rope. Last time I checked, all the bolts on top of Lizard's Mouth looked suspect. Aug 20, 2010
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
 
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
 
I'll second that its usually bouldered Aug 19, 2010
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.10-
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.10-
Also pretty common to just V0 it...the top is mellow. Fun moves! Jul 11, 2010