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Routes in The Mouth

Butthole, The V3-4 6A+
Flight of the Iguana TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Goldak V0 4
Lizards' Mouth Traverse V0+ 4+
Yellow Belly TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,830 total · 14/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A few tricky and sequential moves lead to a giant rail at mid-height. From here, 5.7 climbing on a large, flexing flake leads to the summit.

Location

Exits the mouth on the far right side (left of the large offwidth crack).

Protection

usually top-roped

Photos

Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.10-
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.10-
Also pretty common to just V0 it...the top is mellow. Fun moves! Jul 11, 2010
Nick Sullens
Yosemite
 
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
 
I'll second that its usually bouldered Aug 19, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Considering the deplorable state of the anchors on top, this girl is better off without a rope. Last time I checked, all the bolts on top of Lizard's Mouth looked suspect. Aug 20, 2010
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Those bolts are very very old. At least there are a few of them. Feb 21, 2011
5150dhbiker
Santa Barbara, CA
5150dhbiker   Santa Barbara, CA
I personally like bouldering it, and the bolts are useless. A big organic and another pad seemed like good coverage to me. The flake is getting looser, and I don't want to be on the receiving end of it breaking. Nevertheless...it's quite fun and I recommend doing it if you are at the mouth. May 23, 2015

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