Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ted Hammond - TR '88, Mark Sprague - lead '98
Page Views: 2,003 total · 14/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


76 Opinions

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Description

Continuing with the tradition of canine-inspired route names, Dog Biscuit is so aptly named because (from as far as I can glean) it is quite a tasty treat for rock aficionados!

This route climbs the left, then the right side of the striking arete/roof via technical and satisfying moves.

Begin on the face directly below the arete with a ramp-like feature to your right. Ascend up, then make a couple exciting moves left beneath a low roof to a mantle shelf. Next, climb up the orange face, trending right until you are on good, but not great, holds beneath the right side of the roof. Look right around the corner once you are below the roof and clip a bolt. Make an exciting step around right onto the upper face and climb to the top. You'll encounter the crux right before the chains. Note to climber: Not all paths between two points are straight, especially those connecting the final bolt to the anchor!!

Location

The unmistakable arete/roof at the lowest point on the cliff. Can be seen when approaching from the climbers trail.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
Ward Smith's guide book list the FA as follows: tr- Ted Hammond, 5/88; lead- Mark Sprague, 11/98. May 22, 2007
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Fun, varying climbing up four faces. May 2, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10c
S. Neoh  
  5.10c
Very nice. Seemed stout for the grade until we figured out better Beta, using two unchalked holds, and it does indeed go at 10c. Just wish it is longer!
Sep 25, 2010
RJ Skerry-Ryan
Mountain View, CA
RJ Skerry-Ryan   Mountain View, CA
This climb is essentially the 5.10 version of "Apocalypse Later" at Apocalypse wall :). Lots of fun. May 12, 2014
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
I was belaying a friend of mine on this over this past weekend and he accidentally pulled off a large block after topping out a few feet left of the chains. It came crashing down within feet of us at the base. Helmets are cool people!!

In related news, this climb is awesome. May 27, 2014
Franck Vee
  5.10c
Franck Vee  
  5.10c
Felt stiff for the grade - but then it's a bit of a beta-intensive one, once you know and don't look so much for holds it probably feels easier. Sep 3, 2017