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Routes in Pinnacle & Forgotten Boulders

Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 419 total, 3/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

Stand start the left angling arete. Reach high with the right hand and get a high right foot. Lay back the arete to the left, the crux is getting up over your feet in the first few moves. With the right beta it really is V2 (get your left foot in the high scoop.)

Location

Up the hill from the "warm up" area, or as you come down the trail go straight at the cairn. The trail will curve to the left (skip the right turn for the "swirly" boulder) and follow for another 200 feet or so past a few other areas. At the top of a hill the problem will be on your right.

Protection

Pads and spotters are not mandatory but you'll probably want them.
Graham O.  
 
Total classic! Balancy start to sketchy top out; one of the very best climbs I've done at Pawtuckaway. Jul 11, 2016
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
The sit start stays true to the arete and starts down and right at the base. Use the juggy arete to start, then follow poor slopers to the left to meet up with the holds of the stand start. The problem is entirely friction dependent and feels something like V6... Mar 5, 2008
This problem requires commitment. The initial barndoor layback move is hard, but the boulder is high and there's lots of good funky arete climbing up above. This one is awesome!

  • I caught up with a local who said he did this from a SIT start...amazing! I never considered the possibilities, since the stand is so good, but nevertheless it must be a lot harder that way.
May 11, 2007