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Ball Doctor

V6, Boulder,  Avg: 3.7 from 19 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway > Blair Woods > Hero Block

Description

Stand start in a small scoop with an upside down left hand and a high right foot. Slap out right to the rounded arete and work your way up to the ball (a high sloper) then up small crystals to the top. The crux is beta, and I don't have much to offer, but it's fun none the less.

Location

When the trail splits (at a small cairn) go to the left. Ball Dr. is on the first big boulder you will see (about 200 feet from the split) and is on the left of the trail. The route is on the left rounded arete as you approach the boulder. It is the first problem left of the tree.

Protection

Pads, spotters. There are some small ankle twisters in the ground so two or three pads are recommended.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lock off on the left hand crimp and slap the right arete!
[Hide Photo] Lock off on the left hand crimp and slap the right arete!
Aaron zeroing in on the crimp jug at the start of Ball Doc
[Hide Photo] Aaron zeroing in on the crimp jug at the start of Ball Doc
Amazing problem!
[Hide Photo] Amazing problem!
Struggling
[Hide Photo] Struggling
My first time on Ball Doctor, without any beta <3
[Hide Photo] My first time on Ball Doctor, without any beta <3
Ball Doctor
[Hide Photo] Ball Doctor
Praying that my feet don't slip
[Hide Photo] Praying that my feet don't slip

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ladd Raine

  V6
[Hide Comment] The boulder it is on is usually refered to as the Hero Block in guidebooks and by locals.
The start to this problem isn't bad but the upper portion is heinous and filled with friction dependent holds.
Only get on this route when the friction is perfect!
Cool problem to tick. May 11, 2007
[Hide Comment] This problem has got to be one of the best in the Park! It's highly technical and super slopey at the top, but it certain places offer great friction. The beta can be hard to figure out at the bottom, but I guess it's generally laid out in the description. This is by far the best problem on a boulder full of good lines. Four stars. May 11, 2007
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V5
[Hide Comment] There is a sit-start to this problem that adds 3 or 4 moves and bumps the grade up slightly (V6/7). Using a right hand undercling and a left hand crimp (usually a foothold), smear both feet in the corner, pop out left to a jug, then bump up the arete with the right hand. Get your left foot up and then drop into the backhand pinch (crux) where the stand up version starts. Continue as for the stand. Feb 7, 2008
Eric8
Maynard, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome! my favorite in the park so far feels like v5 moves with v6 beta to me... May 8, 2011
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5+
[Hide Comment] Beta, if you want it...footage of 'Ball Doctor' starts at 2:21
vimeo.com/51642805 Oct 17, 2012
Graham O.
  V6-7
[Hide Comment] Epic Climb! I don't know how people think it's v5, though. It's harder than any v6's I've ever done. Extremely height dependent, but classic nonetheless. Jul 11, 2016