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Routes in Hero Block

2 by 4 V0 4
Ball Doctor V6 7A
Ball Doctor SDS V6-7 7A+
Broken 2 by 4 V0+ 4+
Eye Of The Beholder V4 6B
Fallen Hero V2-3 5+
Girlie Power V3 6A
Man of the Hour V1 5
Pimp Juice V5 6C
Standard Route V0 4
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,803 total · 21/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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19 Opinions

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Description

Stand start in a small scoop with an upside down left hand and a high right foot. Slap out right to the rounded arete and work your way up to the ball (a high sloper) then up small crystals to the top. The crux is beta, and I don't have much to offer, but it's fun none the less.

Location

When the trail splits (at a small cairn) go to the left. Ball Dr. is on the first big boulder you will see (about 200 feet from the split) and is on the left of the trail. The route is on the left rounded arete as you approach the boulder. It is the first problem left of the tree.

Protection

Pads, spotters. There are some small ankle twisters in the ground so two or three pads are recommended.

Photos

Graham O.
  V6-7
Graham O.  
  V6-7
Epic Climb! I don't know how people think it's v5, though. It's harder than any v6's I've ever done. Extremely height dependent, but classic nonetheless. Jul 11, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5+
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5+
Beta, if you want it...footage of 'Ball Doctor' starts at 2:21
vimeo.com/51642805 Oct 17, 2012
Eric8
Maynard, MA
 
Eric8   Maynard, MA
 
Awesome! my favorite in the park so far feels like v5 moves with v6 beta to me... May 8, 2011
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V5
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V5
There is a sit-start to this problem that adds 3 or 4 moves and bumps the grade up slightly (V6/7). Using a right hand undercling and a left hand crimp (usually a foothold), smear both feet in the corner, pop out left to a jug, then bump up the arete with the right hand. Get your left foot up and then drop into the backhand pinch (crux) where the stand up version starts. Continue as for the stand. Feb 7, 2008
Tristan Perry  
  V5
This problem has got to be one of the best in the Park! It's highly technical and super slopey at the top, but it certain places offer great friction. The beta can be hard to figure out at the bottom, but I guess it's generally laid out in the description. This is by far the best problem on a boulder full of good lines. Four stars. May 11, 2007
Ladd

  V6
Ladd    
  V6
The boulder it is on is usually refered to as the Hero Block in guidebooks and by locals.
The start to this problem isn't bad but the upper portion is heinous and filled with friction dependent holds.
Only get on this route when the friction is perfect!
Cool problem to tick. May 11, 2007

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