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Routes in (04) Benny Silva Wall

Big Blobs of Love S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fetus Envy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From CZ With Love S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joe's Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapture S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razors from Heaven S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: Michael LaPlante (?)
Page Views: 49 total · 0/month
Shared By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

One of the better routes at Mentmore, this climb starts with a crux on SMALL, sharp holds, then follows a system of flakes to the top (fun!), finishing up with a nice little roof. The flakes feel reasonably solid. The start is by FAR the hardest part (and harder for shorter people), but if you can reach the first bolt, it's easy to pull through on a draw. Probably more like 5.10b if you pull through the lowest section.

Location

Just right of the obvious offwidth crack in the corner (Fetus Envy). Lower or walk off; could be hard to pull the rope after rapping.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
 
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
 
It's very likely that a key hold broke down low--there's a scar where a hold probably used to be, and the lower section now is at least 5.12 (if not harder).

Right now, this climb is 5.10b A0. Sep 18, 2017
Great beginning to the route. The crux is hard and painful. Pulling for and on the dime edge seems more than 10d to me, especially when routes right around the corner are significantly easier, yet rated about the same. Dec 13, 2010
this climb is stout! Its like going to a naked party in college, the fun starts as soon as you walk in, and lasts all the way untill you leave. Just not stop hard....climbing. Nov 13, 2008
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
 
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
 
Hey Marvin,
Thanks for straightening that out about the FA. Congrats on being able to pull that move...I had to work out an entirely different sequence to be able to do the route consistently. May 31, 2008
Texaswall
The Woodlands, TX
Texaswall   The Woodlands, TX
Hi,

Marvin here, and I want to point out that I didn't put up Razors. I can't be 100% certain, but crediting Michael L. for an Original Side FA is a pretty sure bet.

I do have fond memories of Razor, especially as it seemed I was one local that managed to consistently, and with relative ease, pull the dime edged crimp of a crux that gives the climb its name.

FYI: I'm currently in Salt Lake City and may be for a while, just having bought a house in April 2008. Apr 8, 2008