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All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (S… > Mount Lemmon (C… > 3 - Windy Point… > Hitchcock Pinnacle

East Face

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British


 Avg: 2 from 45 votes

Routes in Hitchcock Pinnacle

East Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North Face T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Direct "Panic Room" T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northwest Route T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,245 total · 31/month
Shared By: BFobar on Apr 24, 2007 with updates from CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route is on the east face of hitchcock pinnacle, starting under the obvious roof. I would say it is worth doing for the roof move. If it was closer to the ground, it would be a fun V0/1 bouldering problem. There is one bolt above the roof and a set of chains. This route is easily top roped after climbing the standard route, but rope drag is bad when lowering off. I would recommend topping out and rapping to save your sheath.

I heard a rumor that some holds on this route was chipped out by rock hammers in the early '70s.

Location

East face hitchcock pinnacle, its a no brainer.

Protection

1 bolt up high. Cracks under the roof will probably take anything fat finger sized. Falling on lead over the roof before clipping the bolt would probably be bad news.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2018.

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Photos

 8
Goofing off on the roof.
Goofing off on the roof.
 2
New year's eve climbing.
New year's eve climbing.
 1
leg barring roof on east face
leg barring roof on east face
 2
Night climbing on Hitchcock Pinnacle's East Face
Night climbing on Hitchcock Pinnacle's East Face
 0
Hitchcock Pinnacle
Hitchcock Pinnacle
 0
Steve's tat of Steve climbing the 10 on Hitchcock
Steve's tat of Steve climbing the 10 on Hitchcock
 0

8 Comments

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Braxtron
...
  5.10- PG13
Braxtron   ...
  5.10- PG13
This climb isn't worth leading, in my opinion; it's not particularly fun. If you really want to do it, do it on TR after leading one of the other routes. By the way, if you peel off just after pulling the roof, and just before clipping the bolt, it would be an ugly fall. Feb 16, 2008
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
The bolt seems to be poorly located. I agree, leading this route is bold the way it was set up. Fun TR. May 28, 2008
SThal
Logan, UT
  5.10a
SThal   Logan, UT
  5.10a
Do not lead this route. Do not waste time climbing it unless you want cool pictures of yourself pulling an overhang. May 15, 2009
Zach Gooding
Tucson AZ
Zach Gooding   Tucson AZ
Nonsense, this route is a fine lead. The roof protects with a small nut below the lip, if you take a fall, its 4 feet, and over hung enough that you avoid whipping the wall. IF you peel off after pulling the roof, you didn't deserve to clip the bolt anyway, the feet and hands are all bomber. Mar 16, 2012
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
What's all this about falling above the roof = plunge into certain death? Bah.. I'm a big chicken and fwiw I slipped off above the roof trying to traverse over to clip the oddly-placed bolt above the lip and had an all-air, very clean fall onto a #3 BD at the roof. I ended up no where near the ground. This was all a while back, we stopped in to play on the Pinnacle after a day of climbing. I thought this was the funnest way up the Pinnacle. It is a bit pumpy, particularly after a day of sport wanking, but a short/fun climb. Oct 12, 2012
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
You can place two small C3's after pulling the roof and before the bolt. I placed them from a funky double knee bar, which made the route for me. Lots of fun climbing for a short route! Nov 18, 2012
Owen Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Owen Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ
 
Definitely worth climbing on TR, mostly for the fun heel hook! I'd recommend rapping down the north face because rope drag is bad. Dec 7, 2015
CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ
CASA Climbing Assn. of So. AZ  
The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2018. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t…

Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 11, 2018

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