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Routes in 1. Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V2 5+
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 279 total · 2/month
Shared By: NiClips on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Severely overhanging. Heel-hooks to spare. Layback to "the nipple," match; then throw for jug to the right towards the top. Top-out above dubious block below.

Location

A 45deg. slab about 20 feet to the right; at the top of the Old Sandstone Area trail.

Protection

Bouldering pad. Spotters for top-out.

Photos

Terry Kieck
Baraboo
Terry Kieck   Baraboo
There is also a boulder 30 yards east of the nipple that has 5 or 6 problems. Nov 10, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Anyone know where the nipple even is? I have been to the Old so many damn times and I've never seen this boulder. Nov 10, 2009
Terry Kieck
Baraboo
Terry Kieck   Baraboo
Down hill from the Aligator wall at old sandstone. I know you can see it from there if there are no leaves on the trees... 40 yards maybe? Nov 11, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
I spied a potentially harder version of this on the steep face right of the arete. Anyone ever try it? Mar 30, 2011
v3/4 variation of "The Nipple" if you start low in the overhang. Burly dynamic bump before finishing with the rest of the route. Sep 30, 2017
Sean Glendon
  V3+
Sean Glendon  
  V3+
This is a great problem on a nice free-standing boulder. There are many variations possible, harder if you use only holds below the lip. First move is to pinch the quartzite pebble and then cross through, and the slopey top out is no gimme. May 17, 2018

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