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Routes in The Meadows

Aquaman S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Atomic Cafe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Barter Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blockade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cat Cave T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chocolate Rocket S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Creek Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dying Time T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Increasing Grade, The TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Interceptor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over the Sea to the Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shit for Brains S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Smashing Hornets S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Taco Time S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tar Baby S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Teabag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watered Down TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Sniveldome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
schnoz , The V1-2 5
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 592 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Apr 23, 2007
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The right arching crack. Sustained 5.8 climbing. No pro is available until 10-12' off the deck and the start is probably slightly above 5.8 (imho).

Location

Left of Taco Time (the rightmost 5.6 bolted line). Probably about 15' left. Right of barter town (bolted route going left under the roof)

Protection

Nuts, tricams, cams to 2" (I think, been a while). Can setup a belay on a tree about 30' back from the top. Use the Taco Time anchors to double rap down.

Photos

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Tristan Bradford
Oklahoma City, OK
Tristan Bradford   Oklahoma City, OK
Tons of nut placements, bring large cams Jun 29, 2016
Rock quality isn't great, we climbed Taco Time and added directionals on descent. Start is the hardest part of this climb. Easiest way is a little counter intuitive as there looks to be a decent hand jamb or lie back on the first move, it's significantly harder this way. Just climb straight up, it's the easiest way. There is also a variation which I think is what Rigggs24 is talking about. It was covered in daddy long legs so we let them be and didn't try that way. Jul 13, 2015
Rigggs24
Denver, CO
Rigggs24   Denver, CO
I tried the start a few differsnt ways and found that heading up from directly below/to slightly right of the first protected portion of the crack seemed the easiest for me. Definitely 5.9 for the fist 10' and a couple unprotected moves at 10-15'. Jun 20, 2011