Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Meadows

Aquaman S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Atomic Cafe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Barter Town S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blockade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cat Cave T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chocolate Rocket S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Creek Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dying Time T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Increasing Grade, The TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Interceptor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over the Sea to the Sky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shit for Brains S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Smashing Hornets S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Taco Time S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tar Baby S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Teabag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watered Down TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to Sniveldome T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
schnoz , The V1-2 5
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Aaron Gibson
Page Views: 1,460 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Apr 23, 2007
Admins:

You & This Route


40 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Serious climbing for the grade. It would be unpleasant to fall on many parts of this route due to the nature of the fall that would result (i.e. it wouldn't be a clean fall). Crux is near the top. It was a very enjoyable climb and is an easy way to get to the top of this wall if you intend to TR some of the other climbs.

Location

Farthest right bolted climb above a knobby stump. Right of Atomic Cafe. Rap down off of anchors.

Protection

Quickdraws. Bolted anchor at top.
pdominy
 
pdominy  
 
Might as well set of a top rope on this route. It's an easy hike to the top and the first bolt is probably a good 20 feet up. Some of the other bolts are rusty. Definitely a 5.6 though. Apr 11, 2016
As others have said it is a really high first bolt and super easy to miss. I was at the bolt and still had trouble seeing it. It's on the shelf, not visible from the ground, and vertically placed. If you are at a point thinking "man, this would be a bad fall..." you are probably at the bolt. Also, there are a few points that aren't real protected. It's a fun route and probably a 5.7+ IMHO. Jul 13, 2015
Adam Cheever
HARRAH
  5.6
Adam Cheever   HARRAH
  5.6
Fun Sport route. You definitely do not want to fall in a couple places due to ledges. Jun 23, 2015
I would say that this is a solid 5.7 or 5.8 due to the fact that High Anxiety is a 5.7 and this route is considerably more difficult after about the first half. Also, it if you are just wanting to TR it, you can walk up on the southeast side and put your anchor together at the top. Oct 18, 2014
Matt W.
Edmond, OK
 
Matt W.   Edmond, OK
 
No harder than 5.7

The first bolt sits on top of the first ledge and is not visible from the ground. It would be a good idea to lower that bolt 2 or 3 feet so that does not sit directly on the ledge. Jan 29, 2014
Ryan Ray
Weatherford, TX
 
Ryan Ray   Weatherford, TX
 
No way that there is anything on this route harder than 5.6. You must have been off route. Mar 12, 2012
Brent Butcher
  5.6
Brent Butcher  
  5.6
This is definitely a classic 5.6 WMWR climb, not anywhere close to a 5.9. The route was fun and easy. However, like the others have said, there is a hidden bolt around ~14ft up, once you clear the tree it should be to the left. Mar 10, 2011
Zach Wahrer
Bozeman, MT
  5.6
Zach Wahrer   Bozeman, MT
  5.6
While I agree this is a serious route with potential for decking on the ledges and a very high first bolt, I would not agree with Steve that it is 5.9. Maybe you got off route or it was the heat. I climbed it during the winter, so no heat problems for me!

The worst part about this climb is trying to find it if you've never been to the area. We got lost a few times on the way out and almost got stuck out over night. Also, as I recall, one (or more) of the anchor bolts seemed kind of shady... Jul 29, 2010
Steve DiMarino
Los Alamos, NM
Steve DiMarino   Los Alamos, NM
I never saw a first bolt and clipped the second at 20 feet up. This is not a 5.6 by any means. Like Celeb I about passed out from the heat and water loss, but for what it is worth, I think it is 5.9 at the top. Maybe I was delirious from the heat, but 5.6 climber be warned.
Also it is easier to get to the first bolt (that I saw 25 feet up) from the left gully rather than the right. May 31, 2010
Decided to check this area out after being in The Narrows on a 103+ degree day. This is a very serious climb for the grade. First bolt was about 20 feet up on top of the column, it is out of sight from the ground. I think it may have been added latter, I totally missed it and clipped the higher bolt.

I was also hallucinating on the route from heat exhaustion. I seriously thought the fifth bolt was HUGE, it looked to be like a giant bolt, I had never seen anything like it (I thought it was some sort of anchor. I had to back down though because I thought the run-out was about 20 feet and I didn't feel like shattering my ankles on a ledge.

My partner finished though, he was new so I started telling him how he was going to have to clean this anchor but when he made the moves he reached out and clipped the bolt. It wasn't a giant anchor after all, but just a regular sized bolt. The heat exhaustion had to be messing with my vision.

Heat exhaustion or not, this is a serious climb. Pretty much ever spot on this route is in no fall zone, except the last bolt, it would have been the only spot I would have been ok falling at. Jul 13, 2009