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Double Exposure
5.11b,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.2 from 15
votes
FA: Scott Duemler
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> Queen Creek Canyon
> Atlantis
> Atlantis S Side
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at:
queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website –
theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page –
facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
This climb has lots of variety. It starts the same as First Born to the left of KGB. The 2 distinct roofs are easy to notice.
Location
Left of KGB, start at First Born, another recent first ascent (not in guidebooks) by Scott.
Protection
Many bolts to chains.
[Hide Photo] First Born is the chimney on the left with Double Exposure going over the roof on the right
Tempe AZ,
Joshua Tree
Bring your wire brush and let me know how it goes. Apr 20, 2008
Phoenix
Joshua Tree
To put it simply, the route is choss. The upper roof has some redeeming qualities but very few. Getting to the upper roof is dangerous for the belayer, as it's nearly impossible to avoid sluffing the decomposing rock off and dropping it to the base.
In the event you are able to link the moves together and still hang on to solid holds (few and far between) you'll find that the bolt located directly below the first roof gives such horrendous rope drag when trying to move through the upper roof that your wildest dream is to just jump and end it all.
It is of my opinion that this route at best should be considered a project. It is criminal that it was put up and left to the public in it's current state. It requires a SERIOUS cleaning and/or chopping. Personally I don't care which.
Sorry Scott, but it's awful. I've already seen better work of yours so don't take my post as hate mail. I encourage you to please return & clean it up for the sake of your own name. Once done I'd be willing to pack a 4' long runner for the bolt below the roof and give it another go. Until then, I'll stick to your very nice .8 chimney to the left. Which in contrast to "double exposure" is a nice addition to the area.
YYMV,
Susan Oct 19, 2008
mesa, az
S Oct 30, 2008
Joshua Tree
Thanks for the history. I looked at that first roof to see if there was a realistic way to avoid the drag. Maybe you'd be able to avoid it if you had put the bolt right at the lip of the roof vs. below it but even then with the way that bulge ledges out would there would still be a lot of friction. Best case scenario is a super-super long runner and even that is no guarantee.
Notice I didn't say the route was unsafe for the leader? Only the belayer, those flakes are bigger than you remember. The bolts however are solid and nicely spaced.
I'm still not sold, too grungy and the top bulge may be missing a key hold (large scared area on the right where perhaps you would side pull?) You might be the only one that could tell that.
Oh yeah, on a side note. When I last did it, the upper section was swarming with wasps which made my "shopping" for good holds even more exciting.
~Susan Nov 1, 2008
Surprise, Arizona
Sacramento, CA
Denver, Co
mesa, az
Milwaukee, WI
Phoenix, AZ
Arizona