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Routes in Sheep Skull Crags

Black Glass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cure for the Common Cold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dust to Dust T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Intestinal Flu T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pneumonia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rock, Paper, Sugar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Joe and Betsy Herbst 1974
Page Views: 428 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Work your way up the sandy chimney to access the tight dihedral on nice varnished rock. Climb the dihedral to a large ledge. Here, move left and climb a great finger to hand crack in a right facing corner for 25 feet (watch the rope drag). Pass a dead tree with lots of webbing and belay. 100 feet.

After this, low fifth class face climbing and progressively easier (but interesting) scrambling lead to the top. Walk off right.

Location

This route climbs the crack on the other (left) side of the big tan buttress from Intestinal Flu.

Protection

Gear to 4", extra finger sized cams might be nice.

Photos

Flava Flav
Kirkland, Washington
5.10b PG13
Flava Flav   Kirkland, Washington
5.10b PG13
Followed this pitch yesterday. It's less than 100 feet, half of which is on the worst rock I have ever climbed on. This says a lot since I do spend a fair amount of time on some obscure routes. you also can't place gear too soon (20 ft or so) or you'll get your rope stuck in a crack. The crux is a huge sandbag, we thought it was 10b/c. Then it relents after 10-15 ft and it's easy again. Sep 15, 2015

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