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Routes in Fern Point

Dangerous Liasons S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
De-Funked S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dead Painters' Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Exqueetion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flyin' Hawaiian, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George of the Gorge S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Is it Safe? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Le Futuriste S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Linear Encounters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Magnificent Pudcasso, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mellifluous T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nasty Groove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Age Equippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Positron S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prowess, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Seventh Sign T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Terminus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Whetterbox, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rick Thompson & Bob Value, Oct. 1985
Page Views: 5,019 total, 39/month
Shared By: DaveB on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Classic NRG route with good variety...crack (tips-fingers-hands), thin face/slab (crux), and steep flake (layback).

Climb crack to vertical slot mid-route. Protect well, solve slabby crux and move up face to nice horizontal. Then, follow left-leaning crack to flake and proceed to the top. Crux is brief, but technical, and requires some thought.

Pro is good.

Location

After descending Fern Point ladders, walk left through corridor along wall. Pass an arete/corner to the left and continue along Fern Point Slab area. Look for an obvious roof at the top of the cliff with a distinct right-facing flake. The route starts directly below in an awkward, shallow, flaring dihedral. Have fun!

Protection

Small to medium pro. TCUs work nicely in spots. Anchor shuts found to the left (some crawling under roof may be required). Micronuts will be useful.

Photos

Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.11a
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.11a
Now available with with fixed pro just below the slab crux! #2 DMM Wallnut, I believe.

Incredibly fun route. Also the most approachable 11 I've found at the NRG for breaking into the grade. Not because it's easy necessarily, but you can at least get a little bit off the ground and get some pro in before it really comes at you. The crux protects well enough and the fall is as clean as can be for a slab. After that, it's probably nothing harder than 10- to the chains and super fun. Sep 19, 2016