Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rick Thompson & Bob Value, Oct. 1985
Page Views: 5,555 total · 39/month
Shared By: DaveB on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Classic NRG route with good variety...crack (tips-fingers-hands), thin face/slab (crux), and steep flake (layback).

Climb crack to vertical slot mid-route. Protect well, solve slabby crux and move up face to nice horizontal. Then, follow left-leaning crack to flake and proceed to the top. Crux is brief, but technical, and requires some thought.

Pro is good.

Location

After descending Fern Point ladders, walk left through corridor along wall. Pass an arete/corner to the left and continue along Fern Point Slab area. Look for an obvious roof at the top of the cliff with a distinct right-facing flake. The route starts directly below in an awkward, shallow, flaring dihedral. Have fun!

Protection

Small to medium pro. TCUs work nicely in spots. Anchor shuts found to the left (some crawling under roof may be required). Micronuts will be useful.

Photos

Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.11a
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.11a
Now available with with fixed pro just below the slab crux! #2 DMM Wallnut, I believe.

Incredibly fun route. Also the most approachable 11 I've found at the NRG for breaking into the grade. Not because it's easy necessarily, but you can at least get a little bit off the ground and get some pro in before it really comes at you. The crux protects well enough and the fall is as clean as can be for a slab. After that, it's probably nothing harder than 10- to the chains and super fun. Sep 19, 2016