PRINT: Rock Climb Swamp Thing, Owens River Gorge

Swamp Thing

5.9, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
FA: Bob Harrington et. al. GU 1978
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Cracked Towers

Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

Swamp thing is apparently the first route in the Gorge, but more importantly it is one of the most exciting routes I've done at the place. It starts off of the little pole-bridge that crosses to the dihedrals, and follows a hand crack that widens to a fun off-width section. From this a bolt protects a cruxy and somewhat dirty corner crux. After passing this crux a splitter, proud, and elegant hand crack awaits, which leads into a intriguing bomb-bay of lose blocks.

Location

Right in the middle of cracked towers, this line is proud and easily identified.

Protection

9 bolts and mussy hooks.

For trad, the book says gear to 3.5". But pro that's 3-3.5" you wouldn't want to stick in since the wide places are kinda loose.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ella clipping on the burly, awkward, but classic "Swamp Thing"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jonathan howland
San Francisco

...And -- more important -- have your belayer wear a helmet. And once the leader gets 20 feet off the deck, stand to the side (up and to the right), as the shower of pebbles and debris is more appealing from this vantage.
ST is easier and (much dirtier) than Silence/Poodles if a little more interesting to protect, but, in any case, a must-do on account of its being historic.
One of the bolts has a rap ring on it. Apr 30, 2007

Matt
Bay Area, CA

Still quite chossy, but we took a few of the dangerous looking rocks down from the anchor ledge.
The route was retro-bolted at some point, and now has 9 bolts. Apr 25, 2021

Jeff Scheuerell

This route is very well bolted. It is probably a bit dirty because for whatever reason it doesn't get climbed. I personally love it. The only "choss" is a very short section where dirt will collect over time. The bolt there is right in your face and if it got traffic it would be clean there as well. Apr 18, 2025

Jeff Scheuerell

Climbed it twice today so good! Once with the bolts and once on all gear. The little bit of choss doesn't affect the climbing at all. Not sure why anyone would give this less than 3 stars??? Apr 18, 2025