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Routes in Lower Slabs

Almond Joy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beginner route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beginners Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clingon T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dike, The T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flake Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hairball TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mounds TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Book T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pete's Tree T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pete's Tree Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slab Overhang TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Yukon Delta TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,221 total, 40/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Apr 19, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The obvious line on this section of the cliff, the crack system between the Flake Route and The Dike. It starts on the right-angling hand crack (a few face moves are more fun.) Climb up to a comfortable rest with a vertical seam leading to the left-angling finger-crack system. The crux is getting into the second crack system, but it is easily protected with a medium nut or TCU. Find the good feet on the face and finger locks. The route is classic except for the last 5 feet which are just a little akward.

Location

On the lower slabs between the Flake Route (5.5) and The Dike (5.8). Start at the right-angling hand crack.

Protection

Small/medium nuts (up to #9 or #10) and cams up to thin hands. I find TCUs work better on the upper section. The route is easily toproped from trees about 5-10 feet back from the top.
J Meagher
  5.5
J Meagher  
  5.5
Super fun, my first trad lead! Super good protection all the way, awesome intro to trad. Basically you can make a solid placement from any spot on the route, I placed almost every four feet and I still didn't use every placement opportunity available Oct 9, 2013
Chris Lumens
Merrimack, NH
 
Chris Lumens   Merrimack, NH
 
It might be a good idea to carry one giant cam for the very top. I shoved a #4 BD in the big vertical crack right before the last move, though a #5 would be fine too. Otherwise, small stuff. Jun 20, 2013
Easily 5.5 Jun 2, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah dude.... you are good to go... May 5, 2011
Patrick Feeney
hartland vt
Patrick Feeney   hartland vt
i am looking at doing the slabs at some point this year,I have a full rack of nuts and then i have a small set of Wild Country Friends.will friends work on this climb May 5, 2011
Chris Silk
Hooksett
  5.4
Chris Silk   Hooksett
  5.4
Yeah its a 5.4... and a fun climb Jul 20, 2007
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
yeah you're probably right, I'm generally not good with grades and have done quite a few laps on this one so it's pretty hard for me to say. Apr 21, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I thought Pete's Tree was 5.5, RC.com says 5.4.... Whatever the grade, it's very fun and worthwhile.... A great route for beginner trad climbers.... Apr 20, 2007