Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,929 total · 14/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Though this is not its own route it is worthy to note as its my favorite pitch on this section of rock.... I often climb it after doing The Book of Solemnity (5.10a) or Recompense (5.9)....

Start with the down climb to the right as for Comeau's Finish (5.7) and make the traverse move to the right.... When you gain the crack rather than continuing across the slab head straight up the crack that thins and steepens until you are on an awesome 5.10a finger crack, and if you look down, you will notice that you are way up there, fun fun fun.... There is a root in a hold that folks grab, but there is also a good lock in the same spot.... Mantel the top and bow for the crowd.... You just did the second half of the last pitch of a very long, very hard route, keep it up and you may some day do the whole thing....

Location

Downclimb to the right and up the crack in the slab....

Protection

Rack of nuts and cams to #1....

Photos

Ladd

  5.10a
Ladd    
  5.10a
I always thought this thing was Comeau's, no wonder I though it was sandbagged hard at 5.7. Damn I feel stupid. Sep 21, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10a
haha, ladd, the first time i did it i thought i was on comeau's too... after i did it i was like wow that felt hard so i did a little research and figured it out... so at least you arent the only one haha... Sep 4, 2010
the step down is to a belay at the top of the Gypsy corner. Oct 29, 2011