Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Breakfast of Champions

5.9, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 67 votes
FA: ??
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 11: Bill's Buttress

Description

Crack route around corner to right of Cheetah route. Very nice pure crack route for bottom half. Top half climbs through sustained and steep wall/corner/roof. Crux through wide section and small overhang in middle section.
One can side step the crux of the middle section to the left but the crux section should not be missed.

Location

Left side of large dark corner chimney that makes up the right side of Bill's Buttress. Around the corner to the right of route "Cheetah".

Protection

Excellent all sizes and types of gear. Wider cam or hex to protect the brief wide crux section.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Placing the old school #4 Camalot in the lower handcrack. Summer 2011<br>
<br>
Photo Matt Kuehl
[Hide Photo] Placing the old school #4 Camalot in the lower handcrack. Summer 2011 Photo Matt Kuehl
Ryan Strong digs deep in the lower handcrack. Summer 2011<br>
<br>
Photo Matt Kuehl
[Hide Photo] Ryan Strong digs deep in the lower handcrack. Summer 2011 Photo Matt Kuehl
Andy Hansen moves through the lower handcrack. Summer 2011. <br>
<br>
Photo Matt Kuehl
[Hide Photo] Andy Hansen moves through the lower handcrack. Summer 2011. Photo Matt Kuehl
The Dark Corner area.
[Hide Photo] The Dark Corner area.
Cheatah, Ignominy, and other routes on the right side of the east-facing side of Bill's.
[Hide Photo] Cheatah, Ignominy, and other routes on the right side of the east-facing side of Bill's.
Breakfast of Champions viewed from base of the tree in the gully
[Hide Photo] Breakfast of Champions viewed from base of the tree in the gully
Early fall colors from the top of Breakfast.
[Hide Photo] Early fall colors from the top of Breakfast.
Ryan Strong below the roof.  June 2011<br>
<br>
Photo Matt Kuehl
[Hide Photo] Ryan Strong below the roof. June 2011 Photo Matt Kuehl
One last chalkin' before the finish<br>
<br>
Photo by: Michael Lohre
[Hide Photo] One last chalkin' before the finish Photo by: Michael Lohre
John K. leading Breakfast of Champions Direct<br>
<br>
Photo by: Michael Lohre
[Hide Photo] John K. leading Breakfast of Champions Direct Photo by: Michael Lohre
JW leading "Breakfast of Champions" and JJ belays.  Don't look like no grovel fest to me judging by the look on Jerry's face.
[Hide Photo] JW leading "Breakfast of Champions" and JJ belays. Don't look like no grovel fest to me judging by the look on Jerry's face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH
[Hide Comment] I think I might like this route a lot more now that it's rated 5.9+. The 5.8 rating always seemed like an insult. Apr 19, 2007
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Yes Jay. I agree. Always have been thinking BOC is another one of those famously under rated routes at DL. And especially if folks stay on route through the wide section and roof it is a tough one for a 5.8. Harder then other 5.8's at the East Bluff? Apr 20, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] I would say this route is a 5.10a

4-stars for sure. Great movement. A bit runout after the roof. Jun 5, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This is a really fun route and a great lead. Jun 10, 2009
Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Loved this route. Great movement. I think the crux is forearm diameter dependent though. I used a very comfortable forearm jam that got me through the crux making if feel like a Lake 5.8 Jul 15, 2009
mandyf
grand junction, co
5.8
[Hide Comment] I would say this is a 5.8. It probably feels harder if you aren't comfortable jamming and try to layback though. Very Fun! Aug 30, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] I just found out from Rhoads that I did this wrong. I stepped out right after the crack and continued through "no gear" territory until I reached the top of the giant flake. Apparently you are actually supposed to step out left after the crack. That would be the reason for me giving it a 5.10a grade.

So now....

Breakfast of Champions Direct 5.10a - Step out right after the crack, surmount the overhang, continue on slopers and crimps to top of large flake. Finishes from here the same as original route. Sep 2, 2009
[Hide Comment] If you lead it, watch out for the Ledge about 1/2 way up. Take some small gear with. Aug 19, 2010
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] hidden gem Jun 28, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Yeah, literally it's hidden... but it's unfortunate this route doesn't see more action! It's very good and the wide section is pretty entertaining and the upper crux (two variations, one to the left and one to the right directly over the roof) is very exciting. The only fault of this route is the huge platform that breaks up the route and therefore lacks consistency. Jun 28, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] When I led this, I went out right after the crack and was getting super pumped and run out. To me the giant flake ledge in the upper 3rd of the route was a life saver. I reached it and let out a loud "Thank God". Jun 29, 2011
Bobby Hebel
New London, WI
 
[Hide Comment] Last weekend a climber stepped on a fairly big rock on the route to the left (ignominy) and it shifted a few inches. It is about halfway up, inside the big chimney off to the left and is considered "still a bit sketchy", so be cautious. Apr 20, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Amazing hidden climb. Amazing moves, great gear!

BETA ALERT:

You can can sew this up solid with (in order)

EDIT: I gave it PG13 because if the gear at the upper crux pulled or you fell while placing it there is ledge fall potential.

#1 c4
#0.75 c4
#3 c4
#4 c4

All below the first roof and after that you can place 1 or 2 nuts from the ledge then climb to:

#0.75 x4 in shallow horizontal out right
#1 c4 right below the upper roof

You probably don't need the #4 c4 but when I whipped on it I was glad it was there!

Go do it!!!
Jul 5, 2015
Justin Meyer
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] I appreciated having a #4 in the wide section and I might also see how a #5 fits when I give it another go someday. Great gear in the crack but above the ledge was trickier and less confidence inspiring. May 29, 2018