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Routes in Five Fingers Area

Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Bob and Wilf Bruschke, Ted Wilson, 1960
Page Views: 1,290 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

One route with a whole lot of climbing options, Five Fingers is a series of bottoming cracks and grooves that parallel each other, creating "fingers" in between. Most of these options are easy, but the climbing is technical. The rock quality is sharp and gritty, which tends to exfoliate individual crystals. Deeper in the cracks, the rock quality improves significantly, providing more security for jamming and the occasional jug. There crack on the far right is wider than the rest, and is probably the most difficult (5.7).

Location

Five Fingers is a distinct "finger-like" formation situated in the middle of the Gate Buttress. It is above and to the west of the Dihedrals Area and to the east of the Schoolroom Rappel Area. The approach is awkward from all directions. The most direct approach is to climb the Prune Face Slab and then continue straight up the gully, staying on the right side. A scary third class approach is required from the Dihedrals Area, and a third class slab traverse is necessary from the Schoolroom Rappel Area. Start along the base of the cracks where the gully starts. There is a tree about 15 feet from the edge at the top of the cliff with several slings and two old rappel rings. One single rope rappel gains the gully.

Protection

Depends which crack you climb, so bring an assortment of gear. Cams are easier to place in the grooves and flares. A tree with slings and rappel rings provide anchors about 15 feet across a ledge at the top.

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