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R8 - Serpents Of Paradise

5.11a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3 from 9 votes
FA: Brent Kertzman, Mike Cronin
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Iron Mountain > Big Gash


Start out climbing the initial finger crack of route "R9 - Bulgey Wood". Move right after the second bolt on Bulgey Wood onto a rightward trending dike. Stay on the outside of the dike for a better pump. When the dike ends move up and slightly left over a small roof (the crux). Finish up on the slab above to the anchors.


This route shares the finger crack start to route "R9 - Bulgey Wood". This route is the eighth route you will encounter on the right side of the Gash.


One finger sized piece of gear too protect getting to first bolt, 8 Bolts; Chain Anchor