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Routes in 2. The Shield

Bow and Arrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow's Mouth , The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ed's Weed Be Gone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eds Weed be Gone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pappys Pearl T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shield, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wesley's Aspirations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jamie Cunningham, Neal Brodien, September 1992
Page Views: 1,832 total, 14/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Apr 17, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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From the left side of the tree, climb to the top of two right-points flakes, and then up the left of two short, blunt arêtes (the rock between the arêtes is often wet) to a large ledge. Continue up the face above the ledge, heading towards the left side of an 18 inch overhang. Pull through the overhang on good hands (probably the crux – get your left foot up high on the face) to the face above with a thin crack. The best climbing on the route is above the overhang – the moves will keep you thinking. Pass through one more small overlap en route to a two bolt anchor at the top of the wall. Fun route.


Starts just left of a large pine tree near the base of the wall on the right (south) side of The Shield. It is just before the smooth (but dirty) face that marks the Grunge Wall. Look for a small 18 overhang about half way up the face.


Standard rack, 2 bolt anchor.


Ken Hamel
Bristol, RI
Ken Hamel   Bristol, RI
Lead this/climbed this for the first time today. On lead, I found the bottom section easy. The OH and above I found challenging, and thin in a few spots, particularly the finish on the bulge.

Then I top-roped it, and found ALL the holds I missed on lead : ) THEN it felt like a fun 5.7!

Nice climb!! Jul 8, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Agree 100% with above; just plain beautiful moves and super-well protectable even 100% with nuts! At the OH a small wired "Stopper" slots into a horizontal so well that leading the OH is almost like TR-ing it! The only thing that keeps me from 4-star-ing it, is its just too want it to go on and on. Jul 27, 2014
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
probably the most underrated route at doesn't look like much from the ground but at the overlap and above it's tons of fun Aug 6, 2012