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Scene of the Crime

5.10a, Sport,  Avg: 2.6 from 446 votes
FA: Tom Bowker 1990
New Hampshire > Rumney > Armed & Dangerous (Ma…

Description

A very enjoyable climb and a good first climb of the grade for those breaking in to 5.10s. There are two cruxes, the first steep and a little pumpy the next techy and footworky.

Starting on the left end of the cave climb up directly on steep rock or step off a boulder to reach good holds. A few of the key holds on the first part are a bit hidden, so if you feel like it's too hard for the grade you might be right. Continue up and right to a good rest stance, then around the corner and left on to balancy moves (past a loose hold that just won't come all the way out (yet) and on to the Quick clips.

Enjoy.

Location

On the left side of the cave, the next route left of Cereal Killer (5.11c).

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips.
Stick clip the first bolt, or at least get a good spot to keep the back of your head off the sharp boulder, as the landing is bad and the moves a little awkward. Be aware the jug for clipping the second bolt is starting to creak also.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Making the third clip
[Hide Photo] Making the third clip
If you looked down this route a lot you would see this expression all the time... it says "wait... how do i get to that hold..."...
[Hide Photo] If you looked down this route a lot you would see this expression all the time... it says "wait... how do i get to that hold..."...
lily chilling after making the crux reach on Scene of the Crime...
[Hide Photo] lily chilling after making the crux reach on Scene of the Crime...
Chris Johnson making moves on Scene of the Crime, May 2015
[Hide Photo] Chris Johnson making moves on Scene of the Crime, May 2015
the crux is reachy for shorties.... nicole, making it work
[Hide Photo] the crux is reachy for shorties.... nicole, making it work
mike spanning the crux on Scene of the Crime...
[Hide Photo] mike spanning the crux on Scene of the Crime...
Don't worry shorties. you can reach
[Hide Photo] Don't worry shorties. you can reach
Jaelynn and torie
[Hide Photo] Jaelynn and torie
Torie
[Hide Photo] Torie
nicole enjoying the jug
[Hide Photo] nicole enjoying the jug
Nicole on the lower section of SOTC...
[Hide Photo] Nicole on the lower section of SOTC...
Jeff in the crux...
[Hide Photo] Jeff in the crux...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ladd Raine
Plymouth, NH
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I've always done this route without the holds in the crack out to the left, I always felt like I was doing 11- moves with compression moves.

It is a cool variation to not use the jugs out left. Aug 30, 2007
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] i always felt that not using the holds to the left messed up the flow of the route and made the moves feel forced and awkward... i never did this variation on purpose but messed it up the first time i climbed it...

i tend to leave the eliminates for the gym... but each to there own... Aug 30, 2007
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
[Hide Comment] The hold Lee is talking about is kind of hidden off to the left and for me it makes the difference between a really fun, somehwat casual climb and a pretty big, but still exciting slap in the face. Jan 11, 2008
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] This route has a really fun lower section but the top is a little weird.

I would certainly stick clip the first bolt, I did not and it was a little weird.

What is the route the continues from the anchors of this climb? Apr 19, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] Crime and Punishment 11b. It is a nice climb that weaves up through the roofs. Apr 20, 2010
Harrison Harb
Portland
 
[Hide Comment] this climb would be better if someone could get that lose hold off...it seems pretty well stuck but still sketchy Nov 14, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] It has been tested with a bar and is very well chocked in. I kind of like it. It freaks people out, but is safe. Keeps them on their toes. Nov 14, 2011
Harrison Harb
Portland
 
[Hide Comment] good to know! Nov 15, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] That hold has been loose for at least 18 years, if not longer. That said, I stick clip the 1st bolt these days; just not worth risking an ankle injury over a route I have done many times. Nov 15, 2011
Harrison Harb
Portland
 
[Hide Comment] it seems someone busted that block off near the top... I think that section, which used to be a little awkward, is a bit easier and less heady now Oct 10, 2014
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] Really fun! A little tricky the first time you do it, but with repeats it makes more sense. The boulder sequence to gain the first bolt is stout and totally awesome. Jul 8, 2017
Ian C
MA
[Hide Comment] the bottom was powerful but didn't feel bad. the crux at the finish was awkward and balanced and you're looking at a pretty big whip if you blow the moves. not recommended if you're just breaking into 10's. Jul 25, 2023