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Routes in Portwoods Wall

A First of Many S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Big New Day S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cryptic Slaughter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fiddler on the Roof S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fog Brain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free Tibet S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great Milenko, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ineluctable S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Maryjane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poopy Pants S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Renegade S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Riddler, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rock Tit S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Truckin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Matt Merton, et al. (late 90's?)
Page Views: 769 total · 6/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: All climbing is on private land Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A very homogenous route with bolt protection right where you want it. Sticky limestone!

Location [Suggest Change]

This is "behind the trees" on the East Facing Wall on very good and solid rock. 4 routes exist here in the 5.9-5.10a range and this is the most right situtated when facing the wall. Ascend the scree slope for two minutes to the first switch back and you are there.

Protection [Suggest Change]

QDs to two bolt belay

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Scott H.
Sandy, UT
 
Scott H.   Sandy, UT
 
Much of the rock on this route is suspect with little protection for the belayer. This "mid -pitch choss" is also referred to in the West Desert guidebook. Sep 29, 2013
Murphski Adams
SLC, UT
 
Murphski Adams   SLC, UT
 
The "mid-pitch choss" is a death flake, that requires delicate climbing on and around. This route makes you fear for the life of your belayer and should be fixed with some serious trundling. Oct 24, 2013

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