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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)

666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Class Act S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a. UNA) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dopesmoker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sin after Sin S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tenable S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where the World Ends T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,389 total, 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Challenging moves up the stellar arete. Begin on the large boulder, from where it's possible to hang the first 3 or 4 draws depending on how sweet your stick clipping skills are. Wake up your belayer and get ready to crank as the first four moves are probably the hardest. A good sidepull and a tweaky pocket lead to a slopey crimp, then steadily improving holds to a great double crimp at the 2nd bolt. Engage your imported Italian slippers and traverse out to the arete and a decent shake below the 4th bolt. Some more classic arete moves and a short dyno to a crimp out right lead up the arete. Around the 6th bolt traverse onto the left face via pockets and sharp crimps, up over a slight bulge and a horizontal crack just below the anchor.

Location

Furthest south (left) route on the west wall of the Grotto. #27 in the photo topo.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 BA

Photos

Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
Yeah!!
One of the better Diablo routes finally has a good name. Good move Jason. May 2, 2016
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12c
A couple of excellent, recent Michael Clark photos refer to this as "Crystal Clear Arête": Photo uno and photo dos.

This name sounds much better than "Unnamed Arête" to me so I've updated the name here. May 2, 2016
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12b
I don't think we bolted this. Ed and I did it this weekend and don't remember it at all. It didn't have those sorta small "Lucky" hangers either which is usually a sure sign that one of us bolted something back in the 90s. Great route though. A must do in Diablo, really technical but not vey pumpy after the first move!

BTW until someone claims FA (maybe whoever bolted it didn't send it) I like calling it "UNA" - Un Named Arête Oct 14, 2014
One of my favorite climbs in the Grotto. Always thought it was a solid 12b. Sep 10, 2013
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12c
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12c
Ed did put up The Thing and give it it's original 5.13c/d rating, the other routes, I don't know.

Though this did feel a bit harder than Trailer Park Girls. Apr 1, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
He he, only in NM! They must have graded the routes on the Beer Block. Apr 1, 2009
Wa3lt
  5.12c
Wa3lt  
  5.12c
This is an Ed/Rich Strang route. I think they originally thought it was 13a!

Great route, perfect rock, good position. Classic. Mar 22, 2009