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Routes in Left End

Aileron Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Airway Arete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Diablo Cruiser, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Early Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Humbolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock n Road T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rope Burn in Hell S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Schmeming S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Two Wheel Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up To Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Walt Wehner, 5/2000
Page Views: 662 total, 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Some people will really hate this route, and others will love it. This thought-provoking route has everything except straight-down pulling. Begin with a 3rd class scramble to reach a large scoopy slab covered with yellow-green lichen. At the 2nd bolt things get interesting with some fun slab moves and mantels that lead to some unsatisfying slopey pockets and the first boulder problem, involving tricky feet and balance. Mantel on up to a ledge below the crux where two options are possible. One way heads left along a heavily chalked flake, and the other goes right on positive sidepulls and gastons. Either way some positive crimps lead back toward the bolt line and some good holds. Continue for 2 more bolts on more straight-forward terrain to the anchor.

Location

The furthest right route on the Left end of Early Wall.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 BA.

Photos

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Ken Kisiel
  5.10d
Ken Kisiel  
  5.10d
The movement and stone on the lower half of this route is great. The holds on this portion are very comfortable but spaced and are generally the only feature available. Don't miss the bomber one finger pocket pulling the move between 2nd and third bolt. Apr 2, 2012