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Routes in Left End

Aileron Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Airway Arete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Diablo Cruiser, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Early Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Humbolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock n Road T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rope Burn in Hell S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Schmeming S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Two Wheel Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up To Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Josh Smith, 4/2000
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This challenging arete is excellent. Approach as for Early Arete, but continue the 3rd class traverse left. Begin up the dihedral until its possible to traverse onto the hanging wall. The crux begins at the end of the traverse, with difficult balancey moves getting established on the arete. Once on the arete more strenuous techery leads up to a dicey clip and finally a straight down jug. Rest up and cruise much easier, though never trivial, moves to the horizontal break, where one more challenging move gains the anchor. I thought it was harder than Early arete, but not ultra-sustained.

Location

Left end of Early Wall, the prominent hanging arete with bolts on the right side. 2nd bolted route from the left.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor. Bolt hangers are gold.

Photos

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Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
one of the more crimpier routes at Diablo, but excellent position and fun climbing. Apr 3, 2009