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Routes in Below The Old New Place

Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Instant Dogma S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
P.M.S. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 26 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scandanavian Airlines S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Peter Gram and Tom McFarlane, 7/87
Page Views: 1,940 total, 15/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

In my opinion, the best of the 12a's at BTONP. Not as long as some, but by far the most sustained. It's on from the first bolt to the anchor.

Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwindle and the movement becomes more desparate. Stay left until its possible to snag the top edge of the cliff, then traverse right two feet to the chain anchor.

Obviously the dihedral crack is 'off', but I used it to get to the first bolt, and it seems, based on the chalk, that everyone else does the same.

Location

On the wall left of the Wailing Banshees arete.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 BA shared with Wailing Banshees. May want a hand-sized piece at the start.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12a
Daniel, the new anchor setup is really nice. Thanks to you and James for making that upgrade.

The old anchor placement was on a horizontal plane which allows moisture to seep into the holes more easily. It was also in an awkward spot for both routes. Making the extra mantle moves up on to the platform adds some more fun and interesting moves after the crux. The new location also allows for better position through the crux for those TRing the route. Apr 12, 2011
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
We moved the anchor shared by this climb and Wailing Banshees up about 5 feet. I think this provides a better and more aesthetic finish for both climbs, and allows for top-roping Adam Ant without taking big swings in the event of a fall at the crux.

On both routes, you now have to make a few more moves before clipping the anchors, but the original anchors bolts are still there, so you can clip them if you are feeling insecure (the climbing is relatively easy though). If you do choose to do this, it's probably a good idea to remove these draws on the way down if someone is going to top-rope the route. The anchor setup still isn't perfect, and if you have any suggestions, feel free to comment.

As for the rating, I feel like the route is probably 5.12a and comparable in difficulty to the other White Rock 5.12a's like Face Off and Monsterpiece Theater. But that's just my opinion. Mar 27, 2011
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
I've redpointed it. I think 12a is consistent with White Rock 12a's- but there's quite a range of how hard different White Rock 12a's seem! Admittedly I usually use the crack before clipping the 1st bolt, which seems like the more sensible thing to do, sometimes I'll clip it from the crack, then start over from the ledge, which adds 2 moves of 10+ crimping to the beginning.

I would rank the 5.12-/5.12's at BONP from easiest to hardest as follows:
Leisure Suit (w/ cheater finish) < Inflight Movie < Little Shop < Sardonic Smile < Monsterpiece < Adam Ant < Strong Urge < Color of my Potion < Unknown 31 < Fat Boys < Leisure Suit (w/out cheater finish) < Manic Nirvana
Don't take me too seriously- I haven't sent them all yet and some I haven't tried very often, or very often recently. Dec 22, 2009
Dave Wachter
  5.12b
Dave Wachter  
  5.12b
Did you guys really climb (ie, redpoint) this route and give it 12a? Seemed significantly harder to me, maybe because I kept out of the corner and off the arete. Also, I'm kind of short and the crux is reachy. Anyway, I was psyched to top it out clean. Dec 22, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.12a
I don't remember a roof or a traverse on Ralph's Revenge, which is the crack that makes up the left border of Adam Ant. And Adam Ant's anchors are way off route for RR as well... Are you thinking of Ralph's Dilemma, Ken?

Really fun route, I don't feel that the it detracts from Ralph's Revenge as the bolts are far off to the right, and Adam Ant certainly doesn't feel contrived as a face climb.

Could use its own anchors instead of the three chain mess it currently shares with Wailing Banshees. Apr 16, 2009
Dave Wachter
  5.12b
Dave Wachter  
  5.12b
An interesting and challenging climb. After clambering onto the starting shelf, you get 3 bolts of excellent sustained 5.11-. Sequency, but mostly sinker holds with a couple of decent shakes. From there it's a bolt and a half of difficult climbing that is essentially one long boulder problem with a clip in the middle - long reaches between small pockets and edges, technical feet, and a couple of big or desperately thin moves off crappy holds. By the time you latch the finishing ledge, you almost want to throw a heel up and mantle a top-out, rather than reaching right to clip the chains. Felt like solid 5.12 up top to me, at least if you follow the bolt line. Took some serious head-scratching and thrutching before I came up with a sequence that worked, and even then just barely. The crack and arete were not in the logical progression (or at least not past the 1st bolt, which isn't the crux), so I wouldn't call the line contrived. I'd certainly do it again.

A green or purple camalot would probably protect against a fall going for the first bolt (not likely, but you wouldn't want to tumble down off the starting platform). Mar 13, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
The proximity to the classic crack to the left makes this climb a bit contrived and detracts at least one-star. Can't argue with the quality of the climbing though. Oct 1, 2007