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Pencil Dick

5.11+, Sport, 102 ft (31 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 7 votes
FA: JSt, DBr ?
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mustang

Description

Long and sustained. Lots of variety, crimps, underclings, sidepulls, pinches, jugs, slopey stuff, little pockets, huge pockets, and one shaped like a big bull penis. This climb has it all.

There is a distinct crux near the top. I think it was between the last two bolts. Thin moves there.

A 60 meter barely reaches with rope stretch. I think My rope might be short for 60M though...

Location

2nd route from the right in a little cove about 100ft up from where the trail deposits you by Beeware. Starts on a nice ledge.

Protection

12 bolts, chain anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks for including me Joseph but I was not involved in the FA of this one. I did climb it and it was "thin where it was hard" thus the name. This is a must do route. Apr 15, 2007
[Hide Comment] That's funny. I thought the route was named after the very long and narrow hole that is about a third of the way up the route. Jun 4, 2007
[Hide Comment] Actually there is a soda straw formation way in the back of one of the holes at the top. That's where the name actually came from. Jun 11, 2007
Christian RodaoBack
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Pretty outstanding route. Feb 9, 2011