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Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo

5.10- PG13, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2 from 26 votes
FA: Todd Swain & Patty Gill
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 01-Calico Basin > Red Springs Rock Lowe…
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Surprisingly fun route with great moves and lots of varied climbing. This would be a pretty serious lead with some THIN gear placements. Starts with a boulder problem type start then moves left to the twin thin cracks/seams to the top of the cliff.

Location

This route is about 20 feet to the right of Shallow Fried Cracken and is easy to spot as it is the only climb with a bolt on this entire wall; start on the steep face under the bolt.

Protection

There is one bolt with a bad unrated hanger about 15 feet up from the start of the climb. Then use some really thin gear and follow the thin cracks to the top. Take some gear and you can build an anchor off the large blocks on top of the climb. Walk off left as per "Aliens Have Landed". This climb is pretty easy to set up as a top rope!!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right side line shown in the Martin guide. Left of the bolt is better, cleaner, and has chain anchors.
[Hide Photo] Right side line shown in the Martin guide. Left of the bolt is better, cleaner, and has chain anchors.
Looking down after the technical crux.
[Hide Photo] Looking down after the technical crux.
Right at the crux; this route is steeper than it appears in this photo!
[Hide Photo] Right at the crux; this route is steeper than it appears in this photo!
The beginning of the route. Just out of frame above is the first and only bolt on the route.
[Hide Photo] The beginning of the route. Just out of frame above is the first and only bolt on the route.
Just past the one bolt and into the double thin cracks on Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo!
[Hide Photo] Just past the one bolt and into the double thin cracks on Gold Bikini & Cinnamon Bun Hairdo!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Hank Caylor
Fruita, CO
[Hide Comment] One of the best route names EVER! Oct 10, 2007
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
[Hide Comment] Lead this as an on-sight 5/10/2011
The corner will command your attention. Fledgling 10 leaders may feel threatened going up the corner. May 12, 2011
cslice
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] Did this one today...the appeal of short approach lured me in. There are so many good climbs at Red Rocks, I would not waste my time on this one. The rock was rather manky and crumbly and the moves were more annoying than fun. Oct 12, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] Great lead! A very heads up one though. Great moves on decent holds and finger locks. Bring the brass and offsets. Nov 19, 2011
[Hide Comment] I made the moves down low which are pretty fun but about 40 feet up I traversed right and that was a big mistake...the rock was horrible and scary gear placements. Aug 12, 2012
[Hide Comment] Never trust a Swain route. Good lesson to learn, chum. Aug 13, 2012
Murphski Adams
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed this quite awhile back (years.) I remember it being a total piece of shit. There's one hold with chalk all over it that seems to be the key to getting past the steep part. I watched this hold move back and forth under my foot while I was protected by one of the mankiest bolts I've seen. In the corner above I found one pod that I was able to get a questionable Red Metolious in, other than that I found nowhere to put gear (I was still pretty new to trad climbing, and I'm still pretty unsure about passive placements.) At the top I put my hand in some very fine cacti needles while I looked for the anchor (yes, I know there's never been an anchor, and after awhile I did build one.) So if super scary trad climbing with questionable placements and holds and picking cacti out of your palm is your thing, then get after this one. Jun 22, 2014
Manderson198
Chattanooga, TN
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Climbed this today. I thought this route was a whole lot of fun! Maybe it's cleaned up since some of these comments were made, but the rock was in fairly decent shape. The beginning was solid varnish, and the sandstone above was clean, if you avoided the obvious (unnecessary) bad flakes.

The start is very bouldery, but not too difficult. You can place a cam in the crack, but any fall after you reach the lip would surely result in decking. That being said, it's jug city after the initial powerful move. The bolt is an old homemade hangar that MIGHT hold a fall. However, there is solid gear soon after, so falling on the bolt directly is unlikely...

Generally, I thought the gear on this route was pretty solid. Handren suggests a rack up to 3", but the largest piece I used was a .75 X4. Likewise, there was absolutely no need for micronuts, if you're comfortable running it out for more than 10 feet in places. The smallest piece I used was a 0 Mastercam, and it was about as solid as you could hope for. In fact, I only used a single offset nut on the route, and I never really felt like I was being too bold. The nearby route, Shallow Fried Cracken, felt like a headier lead, and that route felt considerably easier (physically).

The crux of the route, to me, was just after moving into the left-facing corner. You climb some pretty cool pin-scar-like pods, with a combination of edging and smearing. A few solid finger locks make this manageable. Good stuff!

All in all, don't be deterred by the negative comments here. This route was great, with decent protection (if you're gear-competent), and absolutely worth doing of you are cragging Jabba the Hut Rock (Handren) Oct 4, 2015
Ryan Marsters
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] The Martin guidebook photo shows this route moves slightly right after the bolt up discontinuous cracks to somewhat loose face and notch. This is kind of sketchy.
Most photos and the Martin text suggests the route moves left into the left facing corner after the bolt with pin-scar like finngers. There are new chain anchors atop this line. Feb 28, 2018