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Routes in Kaleidoscope Wall

Acrobat's Overhang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Reckoning T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lemon Lime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Magnetic North T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mrs. Magoo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reach Around, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skeleton in My Closet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Technicolor Yawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Treasure Island T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Yvonne Gaines
Page Views: 253 total, 2/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Apr 14, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Shares the first bolt with Technicolor Yawn.

Start directly above a yucca on the right side of the wall and head up to the first bolt. A #2 camalot can be placed in a hole to protect these moves if you don't want to risk landing in the yucca! Make an awkward 5.9 move up and then step left into the groove. Gear is available here. Continue straight up the water groove to the next bolt. Polished stemming takes you up directly to below the next bolt. I couldn't reach the bolt from the logical stance, but a small nut placed up and right protects the stand-up move to clip the bolt. Make fun face moves (10a) up to the third bolt. From here, head straight up to the fourth bolt on easy terrain and then finally traverse left to the fixed anchors. I suspect this upper bolt was placed specifically to protect the follower and it is a very good idea to clip it.

My partner and I both felt this route was more fun and slightly more difficult than its neighbor, Technicolor Yawn (graded harder in the guide).

Take care, as there is a death block in the final traverse just waiting to fall off!

Protection

Nuts and one set of cams from TCU to #2 camalot. Safe route, provided you are comfortable on Josh slab.

Photos

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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Okay I can't speak as a leader on this one but as I was the designated cleaner. That said, Andy's comment about the last bolt being superfluous seemed off to me. Finishing the slab moves were the most difficult of the climb. Low angle yes, but very awkward. As a leader, I wouldn't be able to clip that fast enough!

~Sooze Oct 30, 2011
Murf
  5.10b
Murf  
  5.10b
This and Technicolor Yawn are the best on the crag. Apr 16, 2007