Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Bob Gaines & Yvonne Gaines |
Page Views: | 839 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Apr 14, 2007 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Shares the first bolt with Technicolor Yawn.
Start directly above a yucca on the right side of the wall and head up to the first bolt. A #2 camalot can be placed in a hole to protect these moves if you don't want to risk landing in the yucca! Make an awkward 5.9 move up and then step left into the groove. Gear is available here. Continue straight up the water groove to the next bolt. Polished stemming takes you up directly to below the next bolt. I couldn't reach the bolt from the logical stance, but a small nut placed up and right protects the stand-up move to clip the bolt. Make fun face moves (10a) up to the third bolt. From here, head straight up to the fourth bolt on easy terrain and then finally traverse left to the fixed anchors. I suspect this upper bolt was placed specifically to protect the follower and it is a very good idea to clip it.
My partner and I both felt this route was more fun and slightly more difficult than its neighbor, Technicolor Yawn (graded harder in the guide).
Take care, as there is a death block in the final traverse just waiting to fall off!
Start directly above a yucca on the right side of the wall and head up to the first bolt. A #2 camalot can be placed in a hole to protect these moves if you don't want to risk landing in the yucca! Make an awkward 5.9 move up and then step left into the groove. Gear is available here. Continue straight up the water groove to the next bolt. Polished stemming takes you up directly to below the next bolt. I couldn't reach the bolt from the logical stance, but a small nut placed up and right protects the stand-up move to clip the bolt. Make fun face moves (10a) up to the third bolt. From here, head straight up to the fourth bolt on easy terrain and then finally traverse left to the fixed anchors. I suspect this upper bolt was placed specifically to protect the follower and it is a very good idea to clip it.
My partner and I both felt this route was more fun and slightly more difficult than its neighbor, Technicolor Yawn (graded harder in the guide).
Take care, as there is a death block in the final traverse just waiting to fall off!
Photos
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