Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Yvonne Gaines
Page Views: 468 total · 3/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Apr 14, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The Vogel guide lists this as 10c and 3 stars. We both felt it was more like 10a and worth 1 star. I placed a PG13 by this route, but realistically it is somewhere between PG13 and R. There is a section of polished 5.8 that you absolutely do not want to fall on, so you be the judge.

On the right side of the wall, head straight up above a yucca plant to the first bolt. A #2 camalot can be placed perfectly in a hole to protect these moves should you desire (it would hurt to land on the yucca!). Make an awkward 5.9 move up past the bolt and then step left. Gear is available here. Continue left past 2 bolts and into the polished water groove. Continue up the groove (another #2 camalot and small TCU available here) and clip the dodgy fixed pin. Make some polished insecure stem moves up to clip the next bolt. The next section is advertised as the crux, and it felt about 10a. Once past the bolt the moves continue to be polished, insecure, and littered with pine needles. The moves aren't terribly hard (5.8ish), but a fall from these moves would send one back onto the lower angle terrain below - so don't fall! Because you're climbing in a water groove, the rock is unusually polished for Joshua Tree - making the slight runout additionally insecure. A small, sideways placed nut is available in this section, but it didn't inspire tremendous confidence.

My partner and I both felt that this route climbed more like a route at Suicide Rocks than Joshua tree because of the polished rock and pine needles in the crack (not necessarily a bad thing, just different).

Fixed anchors are available above the obvious tree. Take care, as there is a death block in the final section just waiting to fall off!

Protection

One set of cams from TCU to #2 camalot (perhaps an extra #2 camalot would be useful) and nuts. Be solid at the grade, the moves above the last bolt are insecure and possibly dangerous.

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