[Hide Comment] We didn't see any bolts and personally I found the pro where you move left a the expanding flake a bit sketchy, hence my R rating. Excellent Eldo-esque climbing. I agree, it seems a logical start to the Surprise and makes for an amazing 2-3 pitch climb. Oct 22, 2007

[Hide Comment] Great fun. I spent too much time looking for a bolt that isn't there to begin the traverse. Look for a pod/jug. This is where you go left. Bring small nuts or cams to protect the crux traverse, though your gear will be more psychological than protective.

Also, chopped bolt at the optional first belay (70'). Only a piton and 1-4" cracks a plenty for gear. Better yet, continue another 70' for a better belay stance.

Great way to start Surprise! Mar 11, 2008

[Hide Comment] Climbed this in early Oct 09- bolt is not there. a #1 BD C3 gives some psychological protection on this crux traverse. Linked this pitch to Suprise for a stellar 4 star 2 pitch linkup (we had a 70m rope). Highly recommended. Oct 17, 2009

[Hide Comment] Not R, but kinda scary after moving out of the .10a lieback into the .10c section. Definitely no bolt, but there was a fixed nut, which my partner removed. There are other spots for small gear or nuts (I used a green c3) in a small pod to the climbers left (after moving out left from the lieback section).

Great pitch overall, great liebacking and fun face moves with good rests in between. A great first pitch variation to the surprise. Nov 8, 2010

[Hide Comment] Still no bolt as of 1/2014. Crux moves are spicy with thin pro in expanding flakes, but it definitely feels easier than 10c. Linking this into The Surprise makes for the best route at FOB! Jan 24, 2014

[Hide Comment] Exceptional pitch of climbing. If the lieback would have lasted longer I'd have given it four stars.
Lieback section is fun and maybe a little soft for the grade. Don't let the 10c rating of the crux scare you off; it protects well with nuts and the movement is fantastic. I'd definitely choose this variation again over the original start of The Surprise. Oct 28, 2015

[Hide Comment] IMHO:
-The lieback 10a section to start is pretty mellow.
-The 10c crux isn't that hard if you have a sporty/boulderer mentality. However, with only one thin, expanding flake to protect, it can be scary. Beta spray: A #.3 X4/C4 will protect well in this thing, but it will give up your best handhold. There's a good left hand once you pull the roof/bulge, but you can't easily see it.
-The huge 5.8 pitch to the ledge with a bolt felt like 5.9 to me in places, and is just really long and sustained.
-The crux of the route for me the is "The Surprise", when the 10a crack moves left and gets really thin or ends. Really hard even following this, but maybe I didn't go the best way.
-Might be the best route at FOB! Nov 9, 2015

[Hide Comment] Dear mountain project,

I had a ground fall at the Crux due to dirty rock and unavailable gear.

If you climb this route and find 2 cams please contact me:
Andrewizumi@yahoo.com

It would be very nice to have this gear back.

Thank you, and please be careful with this route. It should have a pg13 or R rating.

- Andrew Jul 15, 2016

[Hide Comment] The route is definitely a little dirty because it doesn't see that much traffic, but the gear is all there, I wouldn't give it a PG13. No bolt at the roof moves, but I found a bomber .3 camalot to protect the move left around the roof. The rest was awesome! May 5, 2017

[Hide Comment] I've spoken to aaizumi and concluded that he was either off route or on a completely different route all together when he fell. I don't think this route warrants a PG-13 or R rating either, it protects just fine. Werner's Ant tree is my favorite route at the Yosemite falls area and doesn't seem to hard for the 10c rating it's given. May 12, 2017

[Hide Comment] This felt not much harder than the Surprise, so don't hesitate to do it as a direct start.

The flake protecting the crux didn't seem expanding at all, although I didn't test it.

No bolt at the crux, and no bolt at the belay either (pin is still there). Route was totally clean and fun. Oct 22, 2021

[Hide Comment] Did this guy to the base of the finger crack and then linked the whole crack to the tree at the top with a 70m. That crack linking pitch is probably the best 9/10- pitch I’ve ever done in my entire life Oct 23, 2022

[Hide Comment] Super rad pitch
A few small offest cams helped protect the traverse
The pro is just good enough to make it safe
Get on it!!!!!!! Dec 9, 2023

[Hide Comment] As of march 2025 - I emailed Werner and he agreed it was a great idea to add a bolted anchor to the top of this climb. I put it a little higher, where The Surprise comes over, so you will definitely need a 70m rope to do this as a single pitch - watch the ends if lowering. There are now chains on the Surprise anchor and on the tree at the top of the splitter, so you can do a three pitch route and rap down with a single 70m rope.....or do an easy, short 5.7 4th topout pitch - but lots of loose rocks on the summit so be careful, maybe best to only topout if doing the Second Tier climbs. Woot Woot! Mar 12, 2025