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Routes in Lower Slabs

Almond Joy TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beginner route T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beginners Direct TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clingon T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Dike, The T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flake Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hairball TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mounds TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Open Book T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pete's Tree T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pete's Tree Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slab Overhang TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Yukon Delta TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 462 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 13, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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62 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

This climb is a great moderate for beginners (top-rope) who want to challenge themselves and competent leaders who want to scare themselves with the runout near the bottom and towards the top.

Start off the ground at a small corner and a polished high foot, smear your feet up the polish with a pinch on the left arete of the corner and your right hand desperately searching for a good hold, get into a standing position and make your way up to the very small gear placement about 15 ft off the ground then make your way up easier ground and eventually a slab to the top.

Location [Edit]

Obvious shallow, right-facing corner on right/center of cliff.

Protection [Edit]

Small at the bottom and spaced at the top.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I find the first 15-20 feet to be the scary part when leading it due to the fact that you don't get any pro till you are past the crux (which feels harder every year due to the polishing of the "foot holds").... Apr 14, 2007
I placed a #4 OR 5 BD microstopper at the bottom and is was nice and solid at my waist for the crux. Although I definitely agree about the polish Mar 12, 2008
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.8 R
A #7 (red) BD nut will fit in one of the locks before the crux. It will hold yank in in a perfect downward pull, but I doubt it would hold a fall. Needless to say I didn't test that theory. Probably a waste of time, just get the business done :) Oct 27, 2011
kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
Stepping left onto the face at ~5 feet leads to a nice slabby variation, also ~5.8 (TR only). Oct 27, 2014
Andy P.
Wisconsin
Andy P.   Wisconsin
Lots of different ways to climb this an interesting moves up the book are possible; would be great to put a group on it and see how different people negotiate the climb. Aug 20, 2016
Jonathon Davidson
claremont, new hampshire
  5.8 PG13
Jonathon Davidson   claremont, new hampshire
  5.8 PG13
once you get past the crux, placement is easy, would say pg13, put a pad at base if you think you will deck. can be lead from only stoppers. Feb 28, 2018

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